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Watch, souscription type by Breguet et Fils firm, France, 1816 — view 1 of 2
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Pocket Watches · Watch, souscription type

Watch, souscription type by Breguet et Fils firm, France, 1816

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Breguet et Fils firm (maker)
Date
1816
Country of origin
France
Place
Paris
Object type
Watch, souscription type
Materials / technique
gold, enamel
Dimensions
diameter 62 mm
Holding institution
Museo Galileo, Florence
Accession / object no.
Inv. 3860
Credit line
Museo Galileo, Florence
Catalogue title (original)
Watch, souscription type (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by Museo Galileo, Florence (object number Inv. 3860), this is a watch, souscription type by Breguet et Fils firm, made in Paris, France, dated 1816. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold, enamel. Recorded dimensions: diameter 62 mm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Catalogue description — Museo Galileo

Watch with smooth case. The enamel dial has Arabic hour numerals and a single "eye" hand at the center—a typical feature of Breguet watches. The movement has separate bridges with rotating barrel. The escapement is of the ruby-cylinder type. The balance pivots hold the "parachute" suspension designed by the Parisian clockmaker for shock protection. Breguet invented a cheap, simple watch that could be produced in small runs thanks to a subscription and down-payment system, hence the name souscription . The secret signature—invented by Breguet as a protection from imitators and counterfeiters—was etched on the dial with a diamond tip guided by a pantograph.

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

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