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Universal Genève Ultra Slim 'Kanji' Dress Watch, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 31 mm
Stock no.
40990308
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40990308)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Genève Ultra Slim 'Kanji' Dress Watch (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40990308), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 31 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Universal Genève is a true vintage watch nerd's type of brand, and we're happy to see it's been growing in popularity and getting the recognition we feel it deserves. Dating back to 1894, Universal earned its reputation by building beautiful watches powered by their innovative in-house movements, rather than using off-the-shelf parts like many of their Swiss counterparts. They were an early pioneer of chronographs with their Compax line in the 30's and 40's, brought us the timeless Polerouter in the 1950's, and put the world's thinnest automatic movement into the stunning White Shadow in the 1960's. That's quite a track record, but there is so much more to UG than just those models: Indeed, some of their simple field and dress watches offer incredible value and are beautiful to behold, to boot. Take this simple, gold-plated dress piece, for example: It features an incredible Kanji dial in place of a more standard Arabic or Roman example, adding interest that’s difficult to find in your average modern timepiece. While it’s thin enough to slip easily under a cuff and remain inconspicuous, this delightful, small variation is enough to capture the attention of even the most jaded horological aficionado. This particular watch from the 1970s is housed in a 31mm yellow gold-plated case with a snapback, a signed crown, and an acrylic crystal. It features a satin champagne dial with printed Kanji indices and a matching feuille handset. Powered by the manually wound Universal Genève Calibre 42 movement, it comes paired to a lovely green calf leather strap with s gold plated pin buckle. Try it on for size!

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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