
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Ulysse Nardin San Marco GMT Diamond (Ref. 223-88), 2002
- Maker / attribution
- Ulysse Nardin (maker)
- Date
- 2002
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 40 mm
- Stock no.
- Product 8551174832311
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8551174832311)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 2002 Ulysse Nardin San Marco GMT Diamond - Box & Papers (Ref. 223-88) (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8551174832311), this is a wristwatch by Ulysse Nardin, made in Switzerland, dated 2002. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 40 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Huntington Company
History and Significance The San Marco line represents a period where Ulysse Nardin was leaning into practical complications with a slightly more expressive design language than the traditional Swiss houses. The GMT function here is straightforward and usable, built around the idea of tracking a second time zone without overcomplicating the dial. Reference 223-88 follows that formula but adds a bit more presence through its configuration. The dual time display is handled through the main hands and the “home time” subdial at 9 o’clock, while the oversized date window keeps things easy to read at a glance. It is a layout that prioritizes usability first. What sets this example apart is the factory diamond dial. Instead of feeling overly decorative, the diamonds are applied in a restrained way that still keeps the watch grounded. Combined with the silver dial and polished case, it adds just enough variation to make it stand out from standard San Marco GMTs without losing its purpose-built feel. Writer’s Thoughts The GMT function is done very well, with the two pushers, it lets you adjust the second time very quickly. The diamond dial is actually pretty uncommon for the San Marco. It could have been too much, but it's not. It still reads like a tool-oriented watch, just with a bit more character. On the bracelet, it wears like a proper everyday piece. It is not trying too hard, which is probably why it works. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Ulysse Nardin Model: San Marco GMT (Ref. 223-88) Year: 2002 Case Material: Stainless steel Case Size: 40mm Bezel: Smooth stainless steel bezel Dial: Silver dial with factory diamond hour markers Movement: Automatic Ulysse Nardin GMT caliber Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet Buckle/Clasp: Ulysse Nardin folding clasp Contents: Complete set with box and papers Condition Case: The case shows light wear and is unpolished. Dial: Factory diamond dial is clean with no issues; markers are intact and well set. Hands: Hands are original and in excellent condition. Crystal: Crystal shows no wear consistent with careful use. Strap/Bracelet: Bracelet is in good condition with light wear and no stretch.
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Military, pilot and travel watches
The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.
In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.
What to look for
- Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
- High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
- 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
- Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
- Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
- GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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