Patek Philippe Annual Calendar, c. 2014

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

In 1991, the soon-to-be graduates at the Geneva School of Engineering were presented with their final project prior to receiving their diploma: to simplify the perpetual calendar. Although the task was easier said than done, their work led to the inception of the annual calendar complication, patented by Patek in collaboration with the bright engineering minds at the GSE. Five years later, Patek debuted the Reference 5035, the world’s first-ever annual calendar movement that finally bridged the gap between a triple date function and the formidable quantième perpétuel . (An annual calendar requires adjusting once per year at the end of February, while the perpetual calendar requires no adjustment for many years.) This piece, a handsome modern interpretation of the Patek Philippe Complications Annual Calendar, transports us forward to the 2010s. A Reference 5396/1R-010, this lovely timepiece features a 38.5mm 18k rose gold case with sculpted, contoured lugs, a concave bezel, a signed crown, a sapphire crystal, and polished finishing. The opaline white dial is a picture of economy, with applied rose gold indices, a matching ‘dauphine’ handset, and displays for the day, date, and month punctuated by a beautiful moon phase/24-hour display above 6 o’clock that also doubles as the watch’s running seconds indicator. The reverse side of the case features an exhibition back providing a window to admire the self-winding Caliber 324 S QA LU, whose mesmerizing 21K gold winding rotor is adorned with the hallmark Patek Philippe seal. Fitted to an exquisite rose gold multi-link bracelet with a signed clasp, this piece is accompanied by its factory goodies dating to circa 2014. There’s no doubt the Nautilus and Aquanaut have gotten their time in the sun, and even vintage Patek Philippe continues to demand the attention of any savvy collector. But let us not forget the high-complication heavy-hitters such as this, hiding in plain sight in Patek’s modern catalog!