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Hermès Etrier Two Tone, 1990s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Hermès Etrier Two Tone, 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Hermes (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 31 mm
Stock no.
Product 8744015462583
Credit line
Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8744015462583)
Catalogue title (original)
1990s Hermès Etrier Two Tone - Rare (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8744015462583), this is a wristwatch by Hermes, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 31 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Huntington Company

History and Significance The Hermès Etrier is a reminder that some of the most interesting watches from the fashion houses of the 1990s were designed with an entirely different set of priorities from traditional Swiss dress watches. Rather than beginning with a conventional round case, the Etrier uses an elongated architectural shape that feels closer to a piece of jewelry or an Hermès accessory. The 31mm-wide case has enough presence to make the unusual silhouette immediately noticeable, while the two-tone construction adds definition to the shape. It is unmistakably a product of Hermès, where the form of the object matters just as much as the mechanics inside it. The gold sparkle dial gives this particular example even more personality. Its textured surface changes noticeably under different lighting and provides a warmer backdrop than a conventional silver or white dial. The restrained hour markers and hands prevent the texture from becoming overwhelming, allowing the material itself to provide most of the visual interest. Paired with the two-tone case, the dial creates a distinctly 1990s aesthetic that feels increasingly appealing today. A quartz movement keeps the case practical and allows the focus to remain on the design rather than mechanical complexity. That approach feels especially appropriate for the Etrier, where the case shape, dial texture, and Hermès detailing are the defining elements of the watch. A new H.C. leather strap has been fitted, while the original Hermès buckle remains with the watch and preserves an important piece of the original presentation. The combination creates an unusual neo-vintage Hermès that sits somewhere between traditional watchmaking and the house’s long history of creating beautifully designed objects. Writer's Thoughts The gold sparkle dial is the detail that makes this Etrier particularly memorable. Under softer light the surface can appear relatively restrained, but stronger light reveals the texture and gives the dial considerably more depth. The two-tone case works especially well with that effect because the steel prevents the gold elements from becoming too formal or decorative. At 31mm wide, the unusual case architecture supplies more than enough presence and makes the watch feel substantially different from a conventional round dress watch. The reference is also a good example of why quartz should not automatically be viewed as a disadvantage in design-driven watches from this period. The movement allows the Etrier to remain focused on proportion, shape, and material, which are ultimately the characteristics that give the watch its identity. The new H.C. strap provides a fresh presentation, while the original Hermès buckle maintains an important connection to the original configuration. For an unusual 1990s Hermès, the combination of the sparkle dial and distinctive case shape creates far more character than the simplicity of the movement might initially suggest. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Hermès Model: Etrier Reference: Not specified Year: Circa 1990s Case Material: Two-tone stainless steel and gold Case Size: 31mm wide Dial: Gold sparkle dial Movement: Quartz Strap/Bracelet: New H.C. leather strap Buckle/Clasp: Original Hermès buckle Contents: Watch only Condition Case: The two-tone case presents well overall, retaining the distinctive architecture of the Etrier. Light surface wear is present consistent with age and normal use. Dial: The gold sparkle dial presents beautifully, retaining an attractive and even textured appearance throughout. Hands: The hands present well and remain clean and legible against the textured gold dial. Crystal: The crystal presents well overall with minor signs of wear consistent with age and use. Strap/Bracelet: Fitted to a new H.C. leather strap in excellent condition. Buckle/Clasp: The original Hermès buckle remains with the watch and presents well with light surface wear consistent with use.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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