H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Black Edition, 2016

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

H. Moser & Cie is an independent watch brand that has become known as the enfant terrible of the Swiss watchmaking industry. While initially gaining recognition for crafting beautiful and elegant timepieces, the brand has taken a bold turn in recent years by injecting elements of satire into its horological creations. Notable examples include the one-of-a-kind 'Swiss Cheese' watch and the 'Apple' watch. This approach has sparked both admiration and controversy, making H. Moser & Cie a polarising presence in the watchmaking scene. What sets them apart is their willingness to actively critique and comment on the Swiss watch industry, a stance particularly noteworthy given their strong pedigree. Amidst their repertoire of complex timepieces, the Perpetual Calendar 1 remains a flagship for me. Launched in 2005 as the first watch after Moser's revival, it carried a disruptive quality of its own. Notably, it also went on to secure the 2006 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award in the ‘complication’ category, solidifying its status as a standout creation from the brand. This is the H. Moser Perpetual Calendar Black Edition, and as you can see from the photos, the watch is a masterclass in minimalist design. Unlike traditional perpetual calendars that try to cram an overwhelming amount of information onto a small dial, Moser focused on the core essentials. From a distance, it almost resembles a simple time-and-date watch, yet up close, all the crucial calendar information is clearly presented in a perfectly intuitive fashion. As we all know, a perpetual calendar watch can track the number of days in each month, including leap years, so you need to know the day, the month, and the position in the leap year cycle. The large date aperture at 3:00 is the most obvious feature, but look closely, and you will see a small arrow hand that indicates the month. Twelve hours in a day, twelve months in a year, with 1 for January and 12 for December. Moser realized that checking the leap year is rarely necessary for regular users, so they moved it onto the movement side instead, which makes practical sense. When this watch was released, it made people rethink what a perpetual calendar could, and arguably should, look like. Moving on to its 40.8mm x 11.1mm DLC-coated grade 5 titanium case, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar wears exceptionally well on the wrist, in part thanks to the gently curved sapphire case back. This not only enhances overall wearing comfort but also showcases the tasteful interplay of brushed and polished finishes. At first glance, it might look just like any other round watch case, but once you start noticing the subtle details, it becomes clear how thoughtfully the design was executed. Powering the watch from within is Moser’s in-house, manual-winding Cal. HMC 341—a stunning movement when viewed from behind the exhibition case back. Meticulously crafted and thoughtfully finished, it features a case-matching black-finish, a double-barrel construction and boasts a well-designed architectural layout. With a manual winding mechanism, this movement not only exudes visual elegance but also promises a hands-on and engaging experience for the wearer. In its all-black Endeavour guise, the Perpetual Calendar is pure Moser: quiet, confident, deliberately restrained. It does not aim to impress at first glance; it makes sense only once you spend time with it. Stripped of ceremony and reduced to essentials, it is executed with conviction. Love it or question it, H. Moser & Cie continues redefining modern haute horlogerie and proves that true disruption does not need to shout. With only approximately 3,000 pieces produced a year, the brand remains one of the most singular and self-assured independents today.