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Gold and Enamel Beetle Form Watch, 1880 — view 1 of 6
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Gold and Enamel Beetle Form Watch, 1880

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
1880
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
gold, enamel
Stock no.
Product 1390
Credit line
Dealer listing, WatchMuseum.org shop (product 1390)
Catalogue title (original)
Gold and Enamel Beetle Form Watch (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by WatchMuseum.org shop (stock number Product 1390), this is a pocket watch, dated 1880. The Atlas places it in the Industrial Revolution period (1850 – 1900) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold, enamel. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — WatchMuseum.org shop

Exuding the opulence and intricate craftsmanship of the late 19th century, the Gold and Enamel Beetle Form Watch from 1880 is a stunning testament to Swiss horological artistry. This exquisite brooch watch, meticulously fashioned in the shape of a dazzling beetle, features a keyless gilt bar movement with a suspended going barrel, complemented by a plain cock with a polished steel regulator. The timepiece showcases a plain three-arm gilt balance, a blue steel spiral hairspring, a polished steel cylinder, and a steel escape wheel. Its small white enamel dial, adorned with Roman numerals and blue steel hands, is elegantly revealed by pressing a button in the tail, which opens the translucent green enamel wings. The beetle’s head is encrusted with diamonds, and its eyes sparkle with diamond brilliance, while the finely chased and engraved legs add to its lifelike appearance. The watch also includes a small gilt winding crown and an oval glazed frame inside the hinged cover, perfect for a miniature portrait. The diamond-set gold and enamel loop completes this piece, making it not only a functional timepiece but also a luxurious piece of jewelry. Measuring 27 x 60 x 18 mm, this watch is in excellent condition and stands as a high-quality collectible, with a similar piece featured in “The Technique and History of the Swiss Watch.” This is a beautiful late 19th Century Swiss brooch watch made in the shape of a dazzling beetle. It has a keyless gilt bar movement with a suspended going barrel, featuring a plain cock with polished steel regulator. The watch also has a plain three arm gilt balance with a blue steel spiral hairspring, polished steel cylinder, and a steel escape wheel. The small white enamel dial displays Roman numerals, with the twelve marked in red, and has blue steel hands. The case of this exquisite brooch watch is made of fine gold and enamel, with translucent green enamel wings that open by depressing a button in the tail to reveal the dial. The head of the beetle is diamond set, and its eyes are made of diamonds. It has a small gilt winding crown, and the underside of the beetle has finely chased and engraved legs applied to the hinged cover. Inside the cover, there is an oval glazed frame for a miniature portrait, and the gold and enamel loop is diamond set for a chain. This is a high-quality, attractive piece that is in excellent overall condition. A similar watch can be found on colour plate 30 in The Technique and History of the Swiss Watch. This item measures 27 x 60 x 18 mm. Anonymous Swiss Circa 1880 Dimensions 27 x 60 x 18 mm

Historical context

Industrial Revolution (1850 – 1900)

American interchangeable-parts manufacture; railroad time standards; Swiss and German factory systems.

Machine production with interchangeable parts, pioneered by Waltham (1850s) and adopted by Elgin, Longines, Omega and others, made reliable lever watches widely affordable. Keyless winding became standard, railroad watch standards were introduced (1890s), and Swiss and American industries competed globally.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Precision & Scientific Horology

Atlas type guide

Early spring-driven watches

Portable spring-driven timepieces appeared in southern Germany, France and Italy in the early sixteenth century; Peter Henlein of Nuremberg is traditionally credited, although the historical record is complex. These early watches were worn as pendants or carried, had iron or brass movements with a verge escapement and a foliot or small balance, and used a stackfreed or fusee to equalise spring force. They indicated hours only and were notoriously inaccurate.

From the later sixteenth century watches were made in Blois, Paris, Geneva, London and Augsburg in oval, octagonal, cruciform, skull and other 'form' cases of rock crystal, gilt brass, silver and enamel. They were jewellery and status objects as much as timekeepers.

What to look for

  • A single hour hand and often a touch-pin hour ring for feeling the time.
  • Stackfreed (a cam and spring) instead of a fusee on German watches.
  • Pierced and engraved cocks over the balance, fine gut fusee lines.
  • Rock-crystal, enamelled or engraved form cases.

Dating clues

  • Drum-shaped German watches: c. 1530–1580.
  • Oval and form watches: c. 1580–1650.
  • Before c. 1675 there is no balance spring; watches can vary by many minutes a day.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementFuseeFoliotThe Melanchthon watch

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