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French Art Nouveau Rose Diamond Zig Zag Enamel Pendant Lapel Pocket Watch, 1880 — view 1 of 5
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

French Art Nouveau Rose Diamond Zig Zag Enamel Pendant Lapel Pocket Watch, 1880

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
1880
Country of origin
France
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
enamel, diamond
Stock no.
Product 4814
Credit line
Dealer listing, WatchMuseum.org shop (product 4814)
Catalogue title (original)
French Art Nouveau Rose Diamond Zig Zag Enamel Pendant Lapel Pocket Watch (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by WatchMuseum.org shop (stock number Product 4814), this is a pocket watch, made in France, dated 1880. The Atlas places it in the Industrial Revolution period (1850 – 1900) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: enamel, diamond. The record is illustrated with 5 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — WatchMuseum.org shop

Introducing a remarkable art piece from the Art Nouveau era in France during the 1880s, the French Art Nouveau Rose Diamond Zig Zag Enamel Pendant Lapel Pocket Watch embodies the elegance and intricate craftsmanship of its time. This exquisite timepiece not only serves as a functional pocket watch but also as a stunning piece of jewelry, making it a collector’s dream. The watch features a delicate rose motif adorned with sparkling diamonds, set against a vibrant enamel background that showcases the iconic zig-zag pattern characteristic of the Art Nouveau style. The attention to detail and the harmonious blend of materials reflect the artistic innovation and aesthetic sensibilities of late 19th-century France. Whether worn as a pendant or displayed as a treasured artifact, this lapel pocket watch is a testament to the timeless beauty and sophistication of Art Nouveau design. Introducing a remarkable art piece from the Art Nouveau era in France during the 1880s. This incredible pendant lapel pocket watch is crafted in gold and features a unique “sun ray” motif with a hand-cut rose cut diamond at the center. The watch showcases the iconic zig zag guilloche enamel pattern, which is notoriously difficult to execute, especially in vibrant red hues. The intricate design and impeccable craftsmanship make this timepiece a true work of art. During the 19th century, enameling became a highly sought-after art form, requiring the collaboration of master watchmakers and enamellers. The process involved creating smaller movements and intricately carved cases to accommodate the enamel. The intense heat required for vibrant red hues presented a challenge for the artisans. The present example perfectly demonstrates their skill in achieving such vibrant reds with the zig zag pattern radiating outwards. What sets this pendant watch apart from others of its time is the addition of a hand-cut rose cut diamond. This suggests that it was commissioned for a discerning client, as gem-setting a watch required additional planning, time, and cost. The enamel dial is hand-painted, with delicate gold fancy hour and minute hands and an outer minute marker system, showcasing the attention to detail and craftsmanship of the piece. The pendant watch is serial numbered and hallmarked, reflecting its high quality and authenticity. It is also accompanied by a high-grade nickel movement and is in perfect working condition. The versatility of this piece allows it to be worn in various styles, whether as a pendant on a necklace, a brooch on a jacket lapel, or any other creative way one chooses to showcase this exquisite timepiece. Metal: Yellow Gold,Enamel Stone: Diamond,Ruby Stone Cut: Rose Cut Dimensions: Height: 35 mm (1.38 in)Width: 30 mm (1.19 in) Style: Art Nouveau Place of Origin: France Period: Mid-19th Century Date of Manufacture: 1880s Condition: Good

Historical context

Industrial Revolution (1850 – 1900)

American interchangeable-parts manufacture; railroad time standards; Swiss and German factory systems.

Machine production with interchangeable parts, pioneered by Waltham (1850s) and adopted by Elgin, Longines, Omega and others, made reliable lever watches widely affordable. Keyless winding became standard, railroad watch standards were introduced (1890s), and Swiss and American industries competed globally.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Precision & Scientific Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

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