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Favre-Leuba Deep Blue (Ref. 59973) "U.S. Diver's", 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Favre-Leuba Deep Blue (Ref. 59973) "U.S. Diver's", 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Favre-Leuba (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
FVLBDB59973
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (FVLBDB59973)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Favre-Leuba Deep Blue (Ref. 59973) "U.S. Diver's" (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number FVLBDB59973), this is a wristwatch by Favre-Leuba, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Despite its obscurity relative to other major Swiss watch manufacturers, Favre-Leuba has the incredible distinction of being one of the oldest Swiss watch marques in existence -- with roots dating back to 1737. Favre-Leuba was an innovator in the truest sense, though that comes with the territory of being the second oldest watch company in the world. More than just being in the first class of wristwatch making, the Favre-Leuba introduced truly incredible and also useful watches for the professional market, including single-button chronographs, the FL101 movement, automatic FL103 and 104 calibers, Reverso mechanisms, and watches with 50-hour power reserves. They also produced the Bathy in 1968, the first mechanical watch to showcase a depth gauge that displayed current diving depths. Favre-Leuba introduced its first dive watch in 1960, however, in 1963 the company launched a diving model called the Deep Blue, which a variation of is still in production today. The Deep Blue's lifespan includes many different designs over the years, though early vintage models are most cherished by collectors. This funky mod piece features all kinds of unique design features, including a bulky rectangular case, bright orange accents, unique hands, and a vertically stacked day-date window. This example also features the "U.S. Diver's" Aqualung logo as an additional detail of diving provenance. For the true diving enthusiast with a propensity for bold design, this would be an excellent addition to your collection. Stock # FVLBDB59973 Brand Favre-Leuba Style Deep Blue Model 59973 Serial 3XX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Matte Black / Orange Millimeters 42x48 Bracelet NSA Flat-Link Bracelet W/ Stretch Clasp CASE & BRACELET The substantial and robust case is in impressive overall condition, retaining all of its many angles, chamfers, and overall factory geometry in a remarkably well-preserved fashion. The case exhibits only gentle signs of use throughout and no notable signs of wear present. The bright orange and original bidirectional ratcheting bezel is in excellent overall condition, showing no major damage and only some light signs of use. The case retains its original Favre-Leuba signed crown. The case back retains all of its original factory markings in crisp and legible condition. The watch comes supplied on an era-correct NSA flat-link bracelet with an extending clasp, which will fit up to a 7 1/4-inch wrist and stretch up to 8 inches. DIAL & HANDS The original matte black "Aqualung" dial is in flawless overall condition with no age or damage present. The original hands are also in excellent condition, the tritium lume plots have taken on a handsome creamy patina, under U.V. light inspection the minute hand displays some superficial surface cracking and remains stable, the hour hand displays no degradation. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Dive and water-resistant watches

Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.

Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.

What to look for

  • Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
  • Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
  • Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
  • Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.

Dating clues

  • Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
  • Professional dive watches: from 1953.
  • Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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