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Favre-Leuba Bivouac (Ref. 53213) "Barometer & Altimeter", 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Favre-Leuba Bivouac (Ref. 53213) "Barometer & Altimeter", 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Favre-Leuba (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
FVLBB53213
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (FVLBB53213)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Favre-Leuba Bivouac (Ref. 53213) "Barometer & Altimeter" (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number FVLBB53213), this is a wristwatch by Favre-Leuba, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Despite its obscurity relative to other major Swiss watch manufacturers, Favre-Leuba has the incredible distinction of being one of the oldest Swiss watch marques in existence -- with roots dating back to 1737. Favre-Leuba was an innovator in the truest sense, though that comes with the territory of being the second oldest watch company in the world. More than just being in the first class of wristwatch making, the Favre-Leuba introduced truly incredible and also useful watches for the professional market. Introduced in 1962, Favre-Leuba Bivouac ref. 53213 was the first watch to feature a functional aneroid barometer, this allowed the wearer to measure their altitude and air pressure, while also telling the time by making use of the in-house Cal. 10032 manual winding movement. In an era when exploration and mountaineering were at a height in popularity and pop culture, the Bivouac quickly became an indispensable tool, of which has an impressive pedigree of achievements. The Bivouac ref, 53213 was famously worn by Walter Bonatti on the first ascent of the north point of Pointe Whymper, as well as his ascent of the Matterhorn. Paul-Emile Victor, a famous French polar explorer, also relied on the Bivouac on his numerous Endless Ice expeditions. Stock # FVLBB53213 Brand Favre-Leuba Style Bivouac Model 53213 Serial 18XX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Silver Millimeters 40 Strap Favre-Leuba "Gay Freres" Bracelet CASE & BRACELET The stainless steel case is in overall exceptional condition, appearing to have been only worn a handful of times as very minimal signs of use are present and all of the factory dimensions, finishing, and geometry are fully present. The original bidirectional ratcheting bezel bakelite bezel is in exceptional condition, showing minimal signs of use apart from a hairline crack in between the "6" and " "8" markers. The case retains its original Favre-Leuba signed crown. The case back is also in great condition, with all of the factory markings fully present and most of the factory black enamel intact. The original Favre-Leuba "Gay Freres" stainless steel bracelet is in excellent condition, showing minimal signs of use and only light stretch, the bracelet retains 22 links and will fit up to a 7 1/2-inch wrist. DIAL & HANDS The original two-tone silver dial is simply stunning, featuring a sunburst center and a concentric finish for the outer dial. The dial itself is in near perfect condition with only a few nominal spots of age. The dial features strontium lume, which was only used in the early 60s, and all of the lume plots remain fully intact with no degradation present when inspected under U.V. light. Some of the lume plots have taken on a creamy patina and some feature a black patina. The original strontium lume hands match the creamy patina of the dial perfectly and show no degradation under U.V. light inspection. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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