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Eterna Automatic Cal. 1412U, 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Eterna Automatic Cal. 1412U, 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 34.5 mm
Stock no.
ETRAUT-2
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (ETRAUT-2)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s Eterna Automatic Cal. 1412U (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number ETRAUT-2), this is a wristwatch, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 34.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

In the 1900s, wristwatches were just starting to become fashionable. Schild Fréres, as the company was then known, started to produce ladies’ timepieces that were based on modified pocket watch movement that came from small pocket watches. In 1905, Schild Fréres changed its name to Eterna. Eterna from that point on continued to be at the leading edge of watch development. Matter of fact Eterna is responsible for the first alarm wristwatch which was patented by the company in 1908. Another interesting and little-known fact is that in 1932, Eterna created a subsidiary company called ETA SA. ETA was created to make movements for Eterna and other Swiss watch companies. ETA is still in business today and has withstood the test of watchmaking technology and time, ETA is the largest Swiss manufacturer of both automatic, mechanical, and quartz movements which are the base caliber movements still being used in today's top tier brands still to this day. Eterna is best known for its more sports-driven tool watches such as the Eterna Kontiki and Super Kontiki dive watches, but the brand has produced some very interesting watches in its 165 years of existence, including some incredible time only watch like this 1940's era Eterna Automatic, and that would be just barely scratching the surface of what has come from this brand over its many years of existence. SPECS Stock # ETRAUT-2 Brand Eterna Style Dress Model Automatic Serial 1187490 Size Men's Material SS Dial Silver Millimeters 34.5mm Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The beautiful straight lug case appears to have only been very lightly polished in the past and retains symmetrical and full lugs. The watch retains an unsigned crown which is believed to remain original. The screw-down case back exhibits all of its factory engravings in clear and legible condition. DIAL & HANDS The simple silver dial shows appropriate age and retains its original applied logo and retro-futuristic "Eterna-Matic" text in excellent condition. The gold markers all remain in excellent condition and the radium lume plots have aged to a rich golden coloration. The original radium gold dauphine hands show light aging and the radium lume has aged a shade darker than the dial lume, under U.V. light inspection the lume in the hands shows no degradation. ACCESSORIES Non. The watch is keeping time, previous service history is unknown.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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