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Doxa Dead Beat Dress Watch 'Gold Plated' (Ref. 15001-7), 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Doxa Dead Beat Dress Watch 'Gold Plated' (Ref. 15001-7), 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
DOXA (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
gold
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
DXDB150017
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (DXDB150017)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s DOXA Dead Beat Dress Watch 'Gold Plated' (Ref. 15001-7) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number DXDB150017), this is a wristwatch by DOXA, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Doxa S.A. was founded in 1889 by Georges Ducommun as a maker of dress watches and other timepieces. The brand would eventually become known for producing some of the most robust dive watches in the world, but they continued making really beautiful dress watches at the same time. Case in point, this model, which precedes the first of those dive watches by about a decade. On the surface, it's a relatively subdued, albeit highly attractive, gold-plated piece that would look as good with a suit as it would a t-shirt. But underneath, it gets a bit more interesting. That's because this ref. 15001-7 features a deadbeat escapement—also known as a "jumping seconds" movement—which foregoes the typical sweeping motion of a mechanical movement and instead "snaps" to each second like a quartz movement. It's similar to what you'd find inside an Omega “Synchrobeat” or Rolex Tru-Beat and, while it's more or less a novelty today, it's also a really interesting mile-marker in watch history. SPECS Stock # DXDB150017 Brand DOXA Style Dress Watch 'Dead Beat' Model 15001-7 Serial 58XXXXX Size Men's Material Gold Plated Stainless Steel Dial Silver "Aged" Millimeters 35 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The excellent 35mm gold-plated stainless steel case retains strong factory dimensions with minimal evidence of previous polishing and gentle signs of use present. The unsigned crown is believed to be original to the watch. The case back shows some wear but retains all of its original factory markings in deep and crisp condition. It comes supplied on a two-piece leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The aged silver dial is in exceptionally well-preserved vintage condition and features a handsome warm patina throughout, showing no damage or obscene age. The radium lume-filled hour markers have aged to a rich golden-beige patina with no degradation present when inspected under UV light. The original radium dauphine-style hands match the dial perfectly, under UV light inspection the minute hand exhibits minor cracking while the hour hand is fully intact. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

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