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Crusader Art Deco jewelry watch, 1920s — view 1 of 3
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Crusader Art Deco jewelry watch, 1920s

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
1920s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
steel
Lot
Lot 2561B6E1D3
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 176, 30th November - Fine Watches & Fountain Pens, Setdart Auction House (2026), via Invaluable
Catalogue title (original)
CRUSADER Art Deco jewelry watch, 1920s. Platinum with diamonds. (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Invaluable auction listings (lot Lot 2561B6E1D3), this is a pocket watch, dated 1920s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: steel. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Setdart Auction House

Art Deco CRUSADER jewelry watch, 1920s. Rectangular case with a stepped profile, crafted in platinum and entirely adorned with grain-set diamonds, featuring millegrain edging. The central body extends into geometric shoulders and articulated ends, also studded with diamonds. Rectangular white dial, signed CRUSADER and SWISS MADE, with Arabic numerals, a railroad-style minute track, and blued steel Breguet-style hands. Fluted crown at the 3 o’clock position. Swiss mechanical hand-wound movement. Black cord strap attached to the hinged lugs. In working condition at the time of cataloging. Shows signs of use and wear consistent with its age. The watch’s accuracy, power reserve, and water resistance are not guaranteed. Weight: 18.4 g. Measurements: 65 x 13.5 mm (total case size including crown). In the description of the watches, when it states “it works,” it means the watch is functioning. Since collector’s watches typically have delicate and complex mechanisms, the buyer is responsible for any general servicing, inspection, battery replacement, adjustment, or repair that may be necessary.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The pocket watch reached technical maturity and then began to give way to the wristwatch after the First World War. Complicated watches for collectors such as Henry Graves Jr. and James Ward Packard, railroad watches, and slim Art Deco dress watches are characteristic.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

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