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Lapel watch by Erik Holmén, 1900–1999 — view 1 of 1
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Pocket Watches · Lapel watch

Lapel watch by Erik Holmén, 1900–1999

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Erik Holmén (creator)
Date
1900–1999
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Lapel watch
Holding institution
Nordic Museum Foundation
Accession / object no.
nomu_photo_NMA0097234
Catalogue title (original)
Klocka Ingrahm Lapel Watch (ngt.sprucket neg.)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by Nordic Museum Foundation (object number nomu_photo_NMA0097234), this is a lapel watch by Erik Holmén, dated 1900–1999. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Pocket Watches collection. The record is illustrated with 1 photograph.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Catalogue description from Nordic Museum Foundation (Swedish)

Fotografi ur Nordiska kompaniets arkiv, storformatsnegativ i glas. Erik Holmén var fotograf för Nordiska Kompaniet (NK) under perioden 1925-1961. Hans bilder utgör en betydande del av NK:s bildarkiv och består främst av svartvita bilder. Fotografiet digitaliserades 2020 i ett samarbetsprojekt med Riksarkivet med målet att testa och utforska metoder för hur bildarkiv kan massdigitiseras. Bildfångsten har skett genom avfotografering med digital systemkamera med glasnegativet liggande på ett ljusbord. En råfil, dng, och en jpg har processats automatiskt i Photoshop och är därför inte optimalt bildbehandlade men råfilen kan användas för att framställa en fullgod bild. Metadata har hämtats automatiskt till databasen från bildinformationen. Varje enstaka bild är fortsatt i behov av att beskrivas mer detaljerat.

Shown in the original language of the source catalogue. An editor-reviewed English translation has not yet been published; we do not publish machine translations as authoritative text.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The pocket watch reached technical maturity and then began to give way to the wristwatch after the First World War. Complicated watches for collectors such as Henry Graves Jr. and James Ward Packard, railroad watches, and slim Art Deco dress watches are characteristic.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

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