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Bulgari wristwatch, ref. BB, self-winding centre-seconds, circa 2000-2010 — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Bulgari wristwatch, ref. BB, self-winding centre-seconds, circa 2000-2010

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Bulgari (brand / maker)
Date
c. 2000-2010
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
platinum
Dimensions
diameter 33 mm
Lot
Lot 357-47
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 47, Geneva,December 8, 2022
Catalogue title (original)
Bulgari Ref. BB 33, self-winding, centre-seconds, date; “Diagono” “Automatic”; platinum (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 357-47), this is a wristwatch by Bulgari, made in Switzerland, dated c. 2000-2010. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: platinum. Recorded dimensions: diameter 33 mm. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

Platinum, self-winding, round-shaped, gentleman’s chronometer wristwatch, sapphire-crystal snap-on case-back, “BVLGARI·BVLGARI·” bezel, silver colour dial with applied suspended numerals (6-12) and radial indexes, centre-seconds and one horological complications:· Half-instantaneous date of the month (aperture at 3 o’clock)

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: “Diagono” “Automatic”; Reference: BB 33 PL AUTO; Movement No.: 5 043; Case No.: 241; Material: platinum; Bracelet: black leather Bulgari strap; Buckle: platinum Bulgari deployant clasp; Caliber: 220-MBBA, Chronomètre, platinum (0.950) rotor, 21 jewels; Diameter: 33 mm.; Weight: 80.4 gr. (approx.); Signature: dial, case and movement

Inscriptions & marks

dial, case and movement

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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