Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar 3050BA, 1990s

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

Perhaps one of watchmaking's most overlooked industry titans, few brands can claim as many mechanical innovations and iconic pieces of design as Breguet can. Be it their Breguet hands, Breguet numerals, the tourbillon, the Breguet overcoil, or others, the industry has benefitted tremendously from Breguet's continuous evolution and the Classique Perpetual Calendar 3050BA is emblematic of everything Breguet has come to stand for in the modern watchmaking industry. Starting with the Classique 3050’s design, it is, as its name suggests, classically styled. Featuring a svelte 36mm circular case with a domed bezel and cold-worked coin edge pattern marking its mid-case interrupted only by small pushers, the Classique 3050 exudes a sophisticated aura of craftsmanship and careful design in every facet of its execution. Standing just 8mm tall, this watch is elegant on the wrist and speaks to the nostalgic designs of old. Moving from the case, we find a stunning champagne-tinged silver dial with an incredibly vivid Clous de Paris Guilloche engraved throughout that Breguet's guilloche artisans achieve by hand using a rose lathe. Made from a plate of solid gold, the dial is worked before it is then silvered using a galvanization process to achieve the result as we see it here. As perpetual calendars go, I have to say that it is always a challenge to lay out all of the information but this Breguet 3050 does it fantastically. With a four sub-dial layout, the leap year and month are featured at 12 o’clock, with the day and the date at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively, followed by the Moonphase at 6 o’clock. All of this is framed within a brushed chapter ring that proportionately displays the Roman hour markers. Top this off with the ever-classic blued Breguet hands and what you get is a truly elegant and complicated timepiece. This Breguet Classique 3050BA is a Neo-vintage dress watch at its best. With sports watches going through the roof and taking all the attention, it is always nice to come back to pieces like this to remind you that there is still value out there.