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Bordier pocket watch, inverted calibre with visible balance, gilded metal Rhine-pa, circa 1790 — view 1 of 2
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Bordier pocket watch, inverted calibre with visible balance, gilded metal Rhine-pa, circa 1790

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Bordier (brand / maker)
Date
c. 1790
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
gold
Dimensions
diameter 55.9 mm
Lot
Lot 357-27
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 27, Geneva,December 8, 2022
Catalogue title (original)
Léonard Bordier Decorative pocket watch, inverted calibre with visible balance; gilded metal, Rhine-paste and enamel (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 357-27), this is a pocket watch by Bordier, dated c. 1790. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. Recorded dimensions: diameter 55.9 mm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

Gilded metal, enamel and Rhine-paste, open-face, key-winding, round-shaped, “Directoire” pocket watch with visible paste-set balance.Royal blue flinqué enamel (translucent enamel over guilloché engine-turning) case-back with gold paillon and Rhine-paste flower garlands; in the centre, inside a silver frame border set with Rhine-paste, a round scene depicting a young man declaring his love for a damsel in a wooded landscape; the painting on enamel on brass by an unidentified Genevan workshop.White enamel dial, with off-centre dial for the time at 6 o’clock with suspended Arabic numerals; gilded metal paste-set hands; aperture at 12 o’clock for the cock and visible balance.Movement 20’’’, inverted calibre, full plate, gilded brass, fusee and chain, verge escapement, monometallic balance (gilded brass and Rhine-paste) and blued steel flat hairspring; blued steel cock.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Movement No.: 7 296; Case No.: unnumbered; Material: gilded metal, Rhine-paste and enamel; Caliber: 20’’’, verge escapement; Diameter: 55.9 mm.; Weight: 107.5 gr. (approx.); Signature: dial and movement; Accessories: later fitted box, later brass winding-key

Inscriptions & marks

dial and movement

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

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