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Blancpain Villeret Lady Watch, 1990s — view 1 of 4
View 1 of 4 · Image: Setdart Auction House / Invaluable · original image source (opens another website in a new tab)

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Blancpain Villeret Lady Watch, 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
gold
Lot
Lot 438F997D5A
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 20, 30th November - Fine Watches & Fountain Pens, Setdart Auction House (2026), via Invaluable
Catalogue title (original)
BLACPAIN Villeret Lady Watch. Serial No. 12XX. 1990s In 18k yellow gold and diamonds, (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Invaluable auction listings (lot Lot 438F997D5A), this is a wristwatch, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Setdart Auction House

BLACPAIN Villeret Lady watch. Serial No. 12XX, 1990s. 18k yellow gold watch with a diamond-set bezel. White dial with blade-style hands and a central seconds hand. Applied Roman numerals. Date window at 3 o’clock. Fluted crown at the 3 o’clock position. Flat sapphire crystal. Original red leather strap with an 18k yellow gold Blancpain folding clasp. Blancpain Caliber 951 automatic movement. It works. Measurements: 31 x 25 mm (excluding the crown). In the watch descriptions, when a watch is listed as “it works,” it means the watch is functioning. Since collector’s watches typically have delicate and complex mechanisms, the buyer is responsible for any general servicing, inspection, battery replacement, adjustment, or repair that may be necessary.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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