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Wristwatches · Calendar watch

Automatic waterproof centre-seconds wrist-watch with date mechanism

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (Made by)
Date
1966–1967
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Geneva (city)
Object type
Calendar watch
Materials / technique
stainless steel
Dimensions
Diameter: 39.40 millimetres (case) Diameter: 29.50 millimetres (dial) Length: 255 millimetres (bracelet) Thickness: 13.50 millimetres Width: 17.50 millimetres (bracelet)
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1988,1013.3
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Automatic waterproof centre-seconds wrist-watch with date mechanism (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1988,1013.3), this is a calendar watch by Rolex, made in Geneva (city), Switzerland, dated 1966–1967. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: stainless steel. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 39.40 millimetres (case) Diameter: 29.50 millimetres (dial) Length: 255 millimetres (bracelet) Thickness: 13.50 millimetres Width: 17.50 millimetres (bracelet). The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Automatic waterproof centre-seconds wrist-watch with date mechanism Stainless-steel case with screw-on back. Stainless-steel bracelet. Black dial with luminous-painted hour markers; triangle at 12, bars at 6 and 9 and dots for remainder; rectangular date aperture at 3 o'clock; around outside a rotating ring, manually operated, calibrated for 24 hours.Luminous-painted hour, minute and centre-seconds hands. Movement, 26 jewels, rotary automatic winding and club-tooth lever escapement.

Curator's comments — British Museum

The Rolex GMT Master wristwatch, (this version sometimes known as the 'pepsi' watch, for its red and blue bezel). This watch was originally released in 1954, and is said to have been designed in collaboration with Pan AmericanAirways, and issued to crews of long haul flights. The rotating bezel makes the watch ideal for use with multiple time zone.

Inscriptions & marks

inscription; MONTRES ROLEX SA GENEVA SWITZERLAND PATENTED STAINLESS STEEL 1675 11.6 [case]; inscription; ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED SWISS -T<25 [dial]; inscription; MONTRES ROLEX S.A. TWENTY-SIX 26 JEWELS ADJUSTED 5 POSITIONS AND TEMPERATURE SWISS 1570 [back-plate]; mark; D35913 RB [front-plate]; mark; ROLEX USA C*I 1-71 [bracelet clasp]; inscription; edge of case, near 12 o'clock; REGISTERED DESIGN; 1675; inscription; edge of case, near 6 o'clock; 1594907; Serial Number; Top part of numeral '5' is missing, slim chance it could be a '3'

Provenance

Purchased from:, James Dowling

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches

Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.

Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.

What to look for

  • Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
  • Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
  • Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.

Dating clues

  • Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
  • Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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