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Audemars Piguet wristwatch, ref. 5402, Automatic Royal Oak, circa 1978 — view 1 of 3
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Audemars Piguet wristwatch, ref. 5402, Automatic Royal Oak, circa 1978

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (brand / maker)
Date
c. 1978
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
stainless steel
Lot
Lot 347-50
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 50, Monaco, January 18, 2022
Catalogue title (original)
Audemars Piguet. Ref. 5402, Automatic, Royal Oak, So called (English)

View the source record (auction lot) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 347-50), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1978. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: stainless steel. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

Very fine, early, and rare stainless steel and gold wristwatch, self-winding, with date. Water resistant to 50 meters, gold bezel and stainless- steel case back fixed by 8 screws. Monobloc case along with the octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. Off-white dial

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: Royal Oak; Reference: 5402; Case No.: B29315 / No 479; Bracelet: Stainless steel and gold Audemars Piguet bracelet approx. length 160 mm; Caliber: Audemars Piguet 2121/1; Dimensions: 40 mm.; Weight: 111 gr. (approx.); Signature: Case, dial and movement; Accessories: Additional dial, off-white color, with the AP at 6 o'clock

Inscriptions & marks

Case, dial and movement

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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