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Audemars Piguet White Gold Cocktail Watch, c. late 1980s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (maker)
Date
c. late 1980s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
white gold
Dimensions
Case 16.5 mm
Stock no.
21031942
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (21031942)
Catalogue title (original)
Audemars Piguet White Gold Cocktail Watch (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 21031942), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated c. late 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: white gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 16.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

In the 1950s and 1960s, small ladies’ ‘cocktail’ watches were all the rage. These timepieces — thin, and often in precious metals with matching bracelets — were unobtrusive and elegant, with diminutive dials and mechanical movements whose small size is notable even today. (The famed Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101 is still the world’s smallest mechanical movement, and has held this distinction since 1929.) Though no longer widely produced, this type of ladies’ timepiece remains the perfect accessory to a cocktail dress or evening gown. This particular cocktail watch however, dated to circa the late 1980s - early 1990s and comes from Audemars Piguet . Housed in a 16.5mm white gold case with a mineral crystal, a diamond-encrusted top-case and first links at 6:00 & 12:00, it features a white dial with printed black indices, a matching 'pencil' handset, a reliable quartz movement, and a fantastic, matching white gold 'chain'-style bracelet with a signed locking clasp. Unobtrusive and elegant, it’s as appropriate for today’s formal occasions as it was during the Mad Men era when this style of watch was popularized. *Due to the design of this bracelet, sizing alterations may require custom work. Lead time after measurements are established is 4-6 weeks.*

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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