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Audemars Piguet Star Wheel (Ref. 25720OR) 18K RG, 1990s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Audemars Piguet Star Wheel (Ref. 25720OR) 18K RG, 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
APSW25720BA
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (APSW25720BA)
Catalogue title (original)
1990s Audemars Piguet Star Wheel (Ref. 25720OR) 18K RG W/ Instruction Booklet (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number APSW25720BA), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Although Audemars Piguet may be best known for their Royal Oak series, notably designed by Gerald Genta, the brand has had a long lineage of interesting timepieces both before the conceptualization of the Royal Oak and after. Primarily consisting of precious metals, Audemars Piguet produced some highly collectible chronographs and dress models, many of which were stylistically very ahead of their time. Released in 1991, the famous Star Wheel is one such model. The Star Wheel reference 25720OR is the exclusive rose gold variant that is seen far less than the yellow gold option. The example presented in exceptional condition, worthy of any collector that is fascinated by the less traditional side of horology. Though the Star Wheel is more experimental than the average Royal Oak offered by Audemar Piguet, it retains all the sophistication, quality, and style the historical horological house has to offer. Stock # APSW25720BA Brand Audemars Piguet Style Star Wheel Model 25720OR Serial D25XXX Size Men's Material 18K Rose Gold Dial Rose Gold & White Millimeters 36 Strap Audemars Piguet Patent Crocodile Leather Strap W/ 18k Rose Gold Deployant Buckle CASE & BRACELET The watch features a 36-millimeter rose gold case, stunning and seldom seen when compared to its more common yellow gold sibling. The case shows off a beautiful round, ridged bezel paired with short, angled lugs. Turned around the watch shows off its automatic movement through a sapphire exhibition-style case back, although here we find a rare case when that feature is greatly overshadowed by what's viewed through the sapphire upfront. The case is in "like-new" condition exhibiting no notable signs of previous wear. The original Audemars Piguet patent alligator leather strap has been very lightly worn, and it comes complete with its original 18k rose gold deployant clasp. DIAL & HANDS The dial of the Star Wheel is layered, complex, and absolutely beautiful. It features a gorgeous engine-turned rose gold section that dominates the bottom two-thirds and reaches up to meet a curved white minute track. That track interacts with three transparent hour disks that rotate at perfect intervals to point the current hour to the current minute. The telling of time isn't a simple task of utility with the Star Wheel, it's an expression of artistry. ACCESSORIES None. The watch comes with its original instruction booklet.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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