Audemars Piguet Star Wheel, 1990s

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Audemars Piguet is more than the Royal Oak. Period. The more elegant and eccentric displays of timekeeping couldn't be any further removed from sporty nature of the Royal Oak line the brand is perhaps most commonly known for amongst today's collectors. Harkening back to a time of innovation in many respects, it represents an era in which the maison took a plethora of risks, and resulted in several fabulous pieces. In 1991, AP released the Reference 25720, or more affectionately known as the ‘Star Wheel.’ Its unique dial configuration was an unconventional design for the time period given the popularity of robust, stainless steel sports watches. Its precious metal case paired with a dancing disc display has served as an inspiration for modern watchmaking within the maison's catalog, as well as other contemporary design houses. The Star Wheel was truly ahead of its time. This piece, a Reference 25720OR, dates to the 1990s and features a 36mm 18K rose gold case with a stepped bezel, a sapphire crystal, a correct unsigned crown and a sapphire exhibition caseback framing the JLC-based, Calibre 2124 automatic movement. At just 9mm in case thickness and sporting a 36mm lug to lug, this piece is incredibly wearable for most wrist sizes. The magic however, is in the dial. Featuring three separate sapphire discs with printed numerals, this configuration mechanically dances so that each disc rotates to display the corresponding hour as it makes its orbit across the minute minute track located between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. In addition to the unique time display, this piece features a beautifully engraved rose gold dial plate within the southern dial hemisphere and a central exhibition aperture that presents its 'Star Wheel' mechanics. Paired with a brown suede strap with a signed, 18K rose gold pin buckle, this piece is accompanied by a signed, suede-lined, inner box as well as its corresponding outer box. With its sleek design coupled with a striking dial, this piece is a remarkable embodiment of the daring risks taken by Audemars Piguet in the early 90s! Goodbye to the integrated stainless steel sports watch craze and hello to the weird and interesting pieces clad in gold!