
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 18K YG (Ref. 5402BA) Grey "Logo-Down" Dial, 1970s
- Maker / attribution
- Audemars Piguet (maker)
- Date
- 1970s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 39 mm
- Stock no.
- AP5402YG
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (AP5402YG)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1970s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 18K YG (Ref. 5402BA) Grey "Logo-Down" Dial (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number AP5402YG), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 39 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
Gerald Genta is arguably the most celebrated watch designer in history... The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is arguably his most iconic design... The perception of the Royal Oak shifted as people eventually caught up with the revolutionary design. So much so that it began exceeding expectations, and is now the foundation of the Audemars Piguet brand and the reason for its stratospheric success throughout history. Gerald Genta’s original design and the very first version of the Royal Oak is the reference 5402. Also referred to as the “Jumbo” for its dimensions. With a noble size of 39mm, the original Royal Oak was considered quite large for its era. However, despite the case diameter, the case thickness was only 7mm, a measurement that is still considered thin for an automatic watch by today's standards. This feat of innovation was made possible by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. 920 movement, also known as the Cal. 2121 in the Royal Oak, or the Cal. 28-255 in the Patek Philippe Nautilus, which is also arguably Gerald Genta’s most iconic design. Audemars Piguet still produces a 39mm ultra-thin version of the Royal Oak as a direct celebration of the reference 5402. How does the saying go, “it's what’s on the outside that matters”?... The pièce de résistance, magnum opus, and tour de force for the Royal Oak is the case, bracelet, and dial. Humor aside, vanity is the defining reason for the success of the Royal Oak, it is an unquestionably beautiful timepiece. The Royal Oak was most notably produced in stainless steel with 6,050 units produced in total, of which the first run between 1972 and 1976 was the most collectible of the steel offerings and characteristically known for the “logo down” dials. In 1977 the Royal Oak was reintroduced and officially offered in precious metals, though with diminutive production numbers compared to steel. Only 736 units were ever produced of the 5402 in yellow gold, also known as the 5402BA, with early examples sharing the same “logo down” dial that is so desired from its older steel sibling. Stock # AP5402YG Brand Audemars Piguet Style Royal Oak Model 5402 Serial 2XX Size Men's Material 18K YG Dial Grey "Tapisserie" Millimeters 39 Strap Audemars Piguet 18K YG Integrated Bracelet CASE & BRACELET The beautiful, angular, and large 18K yellow gold case is very presentable and was previously restored to resemble the original factory geometry. The factory-like finishing that is displayed through the brushed-finish and polished-finish surfaces that meet at very defined edges of the case, bezel, bracelet, and case back is extremely crisp. The case does exhibit some very gentle signs of previous use. The integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet retains 20 links that show virtually no stretch and will nearly fit a 6 3/4-inch wrist. DIAL & HANDS The intricate and precisely executed grey "logo down" tapisserie dial is flawless, no damage or signs of age are present whatsoever. The tritium filled within the yellow gold markers has aged to an even creamy patina and shows no degradation under U.V. light inspection. The original tritium hands match the dial perfectly, under U.V. light inspection the minute hand exhibits some minor lume loss which is very common, the hour hand remains fully intact. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping accurate time, previous service history is unknown.
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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