Skip to content
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 18K YG (Ref. 5402BA) Champagne "Logo-Down" Dial, 1970s — view 1 of 6
View 1 of 6 · Image: Craft & Tailored · original image source (opens another website in a new tab)

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 18K YG (Ref. 5402BA) Champagne "Logo-Down" Dial, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 39 mm
Stock no.
AP5402YG-2
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (AP5402YG-2)
Catalogue title (original)
1970s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 18K YG (Ref. 5402BA) Champagne "Logo-Down" Dial W/ Extract From The Archives (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number AP5402YG-2), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 39 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Gerald Genta is arguably the most prolific and celebrated watch designer in history, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is arguably his most iconic design. The perception of the Royal Oak shifted as people eventually caught up with the revolutionary design. So much so that it began exceeding expectations, and is now the foundation of the Audemars Piguet brand and the reason for its stratospheric success throughout history. Gerald Genta’s original design and the very first version of the Royal Oak is the reference 5402. Also referred to as the “Jumbo” for its dimensions. With a noble size of 39mm, the original Royal Oak was considered quite large for its era. However, despite the case diameter, the case thickness was only 7mm, a measurement that is still considered thin for an automatic watch by today's standards. This feat of innovation was made possible by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. 920 movement, also known as the Cal. 2121 in the Royal Oak, or the Cal. 28-255 in the Patek Philippe Nautilus, which is also arguably Gerald Genta’s most iconic design. Audemars Piguet still produces a 39mm ultra-thin version of the Royal Oak as a direct celebration of the reference 5402. The pièce de résistance, magnum opus, and tour de force for the Royal Oak is the case, bracelet, and dial. Humor aside, vanity is the defining reason for the success of the Royal Oak, it is an unquestionably beautiful timepiece. The Royal Oak was most notably produced in stainless steel with 6,050 units produced in total, of which the first run between 1972 and 1976 was the most collectible of the steel offerings and characteristically known for the “logo down” dials. In 1977 the Royal Oak was reintroduced and officially offered in precious metals, though with diminutive production numbers compared to steel. Only 736 units were ever produced of the 5402 in yellow gold, also known as the 5402BA, with early examples sharing the same “logo down” dial that is so desired from its older steel sibling. Stock # AP5402YG-2 Brand Audemars Piguet Style Royal Oak Model 5402BA Serial 4XX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Champagne "Tapisserie" Millimeters 39 Bracelet Audemars Piguet 18K YG Integrated Bracelet CASE & BRACELET The iconic, angular, large, and beautiful 18K yellow gold case is remarkably well-preserved, showing minimal signs of previous polishing with the original finishing and edges remaining crisp and present. The case does exhibits a natural rosy patina from age and lack of polishing, with subtle signs of use present. The case retains its original unsigned gold octagon crown. The case back retains the factory AP markings in deep and crisp condition. The original integrated "Gay Freres" 18K yellow gold bracelet retains 21 links that show very minimal stretch and will fit a 7 1/4-inch wrist. DIAL & HANDS The very rare and handsome champagne "logo down" tapisserie dial is intricate and precisely executed, remaining in flawless condition with no damage or age are present. The tritium filled within the yellow gold markers has aged to an even beige patina and show no degradation under UV light inspection. The original tritium hands match the dial perfectly and exhibit no degradation under U.V. light inspection. ACCESSORIES The watch comes with an Extract From The Audemars Piguet Archive. The watch is keeping time perfectly, previous service history is unknown.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

Related records