Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15450ST White, 2020

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

The Royal Oak, with its octagonal case, exposed screws and integrated bracelet, is one of the most distinctive watches on the market today. Designed by Gérald Genta and first introduced in 1972, it completely changed the idea of what a luxury sports watch could be, and more than fifty years later, very little about the fundamental design has changed. The example you see here today is the mid-sized Ref. 15450ST, measuring 37mm in stainless steel. Introduced in 2012 for the Royal Oak’s 40th anniversary, the 15450 was launched alongside the larger 41mm Ref. 15400 and remained in production for a decade, until it was replaced by the Ref. 15550 in 2022. While 37mm might sound small on paper, the Royal Oak has always worn larger than its stated dimensions thanks to its broad case, integrated bracelet and relatively long stance across the wrist. In fact, I find the proportions of the 15450 particularly good. It has all the presence you would expect from a Royal Oak without the bulk of the larger 41mm references, and the case and bracelet seem to flow particularly naturally at this size. There is also historical precedent for a Royal Oak of this proportion. The original Ref. 5402 measured 39mm, and Royal Oaks have been produced in a multitude of sizes ever since. The 15450 feels very much in keeping with that tradition, rather than simply being a downsized version of the larger watch. For those who find the 41mm 15400 too imposing, it is arguably one of the best-wearing modern Royal Oaks. The dial here is the classic white, or more accurately silver, ‘Grande Tapisserie’ dial. Compared to the blue and ruthenium variants, there is something particularly clean and understated about it. The monochromatic combination of the silver dial and steel case also puts more emphasis on the architecture and finishing of the Royal Oak itself, especially the contrast between the brushed surfaces and polished bevels of the case and bracelet. Depending on the light, the dial can appear almost stark white before taking on a warmer metallic silver tone. Inside is Audemars Piguet’s in-house Calibre 3120, the same movement found in the larger 15400. Visible through the sapphire caseback, it is an automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve and a beautifully finished 22k gold rotor. The 15450ST occupies a particularly nice place within the modern Royal Oak lineage. It retains everything that makes the Royal Oak so recognisable, but packages it in a size that feels balanced, elegant and extremely wearable. With the white dial especially, it is perhaps one of the purest and most versatile executions of the modern Royal Oak.