Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Audemars Piguet Huitième Chronograph Yellow Gold Ref 25644, early 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Audemars Piguet (maker)
- Date
- early 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- yellow gold
- Dimensions
- Case 40 mm
- Stock no.
- W-2474
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-2474)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Audemars Piguet Huitième Chronograph Yellow Gold Ref 25644 (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-2474), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated early 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 40 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Bulang & Sons
When we think of AP, it’s difficult not to think of the Royal Oak, but there are other pieces from the brand that are becoming more sought after, such as this lovely yellow gold Huitième chronograph. This example remains in outstanding original condition with a good case and lovely cream no-lume dial. The dial features yellow gold applied hour markers, has the tachymeter on the outer edge and has a date at three o’clock. The no lume dial is complimented with no lume hands. The bezel has Audemars Piguet engraved on it. The watch is fitted with the pictured leather Bulang and Sons strap as well coming with an AP yellow gold folding deployment clasp. The watch houses the calibre 2126 automatic movement that has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. If off the beaten path neo-vintage watches are your thing, then with this cool Audemars Piguet Huitième chronograph, we have you covered! Drop us a line to find out more. Specifications: - Audemars Piguet Huitième Chronograph - Reference 25644 - 40mm 18kt yellow gold case - C26xxx serial dating to early 1990s - cream coloured dial with three sub dials - No lume dial and hands - Cal 2126 automatic movement - Bulang and Sons leather strap plus an Audemars Piguet gold deployment clasp - Fully serviced by our watchmaker - Includes a handmade leather watch pouch
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
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