
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Audemars Piguet Huitième Chronograph in Rose Gold and Tantalum Execution Ref. 25644TR, early 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Audemars Piguet (maker)
- Date
- early 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- rose gold
- Dimensions
- Case 41 mm
- Stock no.
- W-3049
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3049)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Audemars Piguet Huitième Chronograph in Rose Gold and Tantalum Execution Ref. 25644TR (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3049), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated early 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: rose gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 41 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Bulang & Sons
"Huitième" (in Old French, meaning "eighth") was Audemars Piguet's prestigious line during the 1970s and 1980s, but it has largely faded into obscurity today, overshadowed by the iconic Royal Oak models! At hand, we have a stunning 41mm tantalum and rose gold chronograph, reference 25644TR. Tantalum is a very hard, blue-gray transition metal that is highly corrosion-resistant. It is named after Tantalus, a figure from Greek mythology. The case is primarily crafted from tantalum, with 18k rose gold accents, and features relatively short lugs, pump-style pushers, and a cool, rather unusual "Audemars Piguet" engraving on the outer rim of the case. The matte grey dial has no lume, a white tachymeter scale, and three subdials with elegant rose gold rings around the chrono dials. Notably, the "Cyclops eye" over the date is embedded inside the crystal—a rare and refined detail—rather than positioned on top, as is typical with Rolex and many other brands. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, cal. 2126/2840, based on a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. We have paired this watch with a beautiful Bulang & Sons strap, and included in the sale is a gold-and-steel folding clasp that was originally paired with the watch. The watch has been fully serviced by our watchmaker and is ready for years of enjoyment. Is this “NOT A ROYAL OAK” the one for you? Get in touch! Specifications: - Audemars Piguet Huitième Chronograph - Reference 25644TR - 41mm tantalum / 18k rose gold case - C50XXX serial dating to the early 1990s - Grey dial with three sub-dials - No-lume dial and hands - Cal. 2126 automatic movement - Bulang & Sons leather strap with AP yellow gold/steel folding clasp - Fully serviced by our watchmaker
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
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