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Audemars Piguet Automatic 18K WG (Ref. 5369BC) "Turler" Dial, 1970s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Audemars Piguet Automatic 18K WG (Ref. 5369BC) "Turler" Dial, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 37 mm
Stock no.
AP5369BC
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (AP5369BC)
Catalogue title (original)
1970s Audemars Piguet Automatic 18K WG (Ref. 5369BC) "Turler" Dial (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number AP5369BC), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 37 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Although Audemars Piguet may be best known for their Royal Oak series, notably designed by Gerald Genta, AP had a long lineage of interesting timepieces both before the conceptualization of the Royal Oak and after. Primarily consisting of precious metals, Audemar Piguet produced some highly collectible chronographs and dress models that were stylistically, in many cases, very ahead of their time. The Audemars Piguet ref. 5369BC is an exceptionally handsome dress watch that is a not so distant relative to the aforementioned and famous Royal Oak. Both watches were designed by Gerald Genta in the early 70s and both feature ultra-thin movements, the movement in the ref. 5369 being the rare ultra-thin Audemars Piguet Cal. K2002. This particualr piece is co-signed by Turler, a Zurich-based jeweler. The brand was established in 1883 by brothers Jean Henri and César Alexander Turler, who made a name for themselves by offering their customers the newest and most exclusive Swiss watch brands at the time, including, Audemars Piguet, Omega, Longines, Vacheron Constantin and Blancpain. After establishing themselves as one of the top retailers in Zurich, Switzerland, and with the prestige the Turler name carried, they started to co-sign the dials of some of the watches they offered, similar to the other well-respected retailers at the time. These Turler co-signed watches produced throughout the 20th century are now desired by collectors alike for their rarity and the provenance they carry. Stock # AP5369BC Brand Audemars Piguet Style Dress Watch Model 5369BC Serial 56XXX Size Men's Material 18K White Gold Dial Silver "Turler" Millimeters 32X32 Strap 2pc Handmade Barenia Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The very thin, tonneau shaped 18K white gold case has an overall thickness of 6mm that makes for an exceptionally elegant and truly sophisticated aesthetic on wrist. While thin, the lug to lug measurement is 37mm which gives the watch a The 18K white gold case is in superb overall condition, retains crisp finishing and lines throughout with only minimal signs of previous use present. The hall marks and serial number engravings on the case back remain deep and crisp. The watch will come supplied on a 2pc handmade Barenia leather watch strap DIAL & HANDS The simple satin silver "Turler" signed dial has a surprising amount of depth, adding to the overall sophistication of the watch. The dial itself is exceptionally well-preserved, exhibiting nominal age as it isn't actually present to the naked eye. The solid hands are original to the watch and in excellent condition as well. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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