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Audemars Piguet Automatic 18K WG (Ref. 5205) Silver Dial, 1970s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Audemars Piguet Automatic 18K WG (Ref. 5205) Silver Dial, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
silver
Stock no.
AP5205
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (AP5205)
Catalogue title (original)
1970s Audemars Piguet Automatic 18K WG (Ref. 5205) Silver Dial (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number AP5205), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Although Audemars Piguet may be best known for their Royal Oak series, notably designed by Gerald Genta, AP had a long lineage of interesting timepieces both before the conceptualization of the Royal Oak and after. Primarily consisting of precious metals, Audemars Piguet produced some highly collectible chronographs and dress models that were stylistically, in many cases, very ahead of their time. The Audemars Piguet ref. 5205 is an exceptionally handsome dress watch that is a not-so-distant relative to the aforementioned and famous Royal Oak. Both watches were designed by Gerald Genta in the early 70s and both feature impressive movements, the caliber in the ref. 5205 being the Audemars Piguet Cal. K2072 with an 18K yellow gold rotor. SPECS Stock # AP5205 Brand Audemars Piguet Style Dress Watch Model 5205 Serial 33XXX Size Men's Material 18K White Gold Dial Silver Millimeters 34 X 39 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The handsome C-shaped 18K white gold case retains crisp edges and strong dimensions with gentle wear and minimal evidence of being previously polished present. The case retains its original unsigned crown. The hallmarks and serial number engravings on the case back remain crisp and visible. The watch will come supplied on a 2pc handmade leather watch strap. DIAL & HANDS The silver sunburst dial is simple and sophisticated with ornate markers at 12, 6, and 9 o'clock. The dial itself is in well-preserved vintage condition, exhibiting some minor age, with the most notable wear being a scratch above the 10 o'clock marker that is mostly invisible to the naked eye. The solid hands are original to the watch and in excellent condition as well. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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