Audemars Piguet, 1984

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Audemars Piguet is known among collectors for the Royal Oak, the watch designed by the legendary Gerald Genta and released in 1972 whereby single-handedly bringing AP back from the brink of bankruptcy and inciting the modern jumbo-watch trend that is only now beginning to fade. The Royal Oak was greeted with a lot of criticism, but by the late 1970s, it was a benchmark for style and AP was quick to recognize it's success, making it a sort of crown jewel for the brand. The success of the Royal Oak maintained, and AP capitalized, releasing an array of models and complications right up to today. One effect of the Royal Oak was a renewed focus on Audemars Piguet as a serious haute manufacture capable of producing incredibly beautiful and well-built timepieces, whether they be steel sports watches or smaller, more reserved dress watches. This piece, a Reference 5589 from 1984, is a perfect example of Audemars Piguet's design savoir faire outside of the cherished Royal Oak. The svelte solid gold case is incredibly understated for the mid-1980s. Its stepped bezel and short straight lugs give the watch the appearance of a refined gentleman's piece from the 1930s or 40s, complimented expertly by the enamel dial with painted Roman hour markers. The high-grade automatic movement drives the day/date complications appearing at 9:00 and 3:00 respectively. The entire effect is a watch that is not only beautiful but also functional. Maybe you're a diehard AP fan looking for a counter point to your Jumbo Royal Oak, or maybe you're a collector looking for a superlative dress piece. Perhaps you just appreciate the stunning beauty of a vintage piece from one of the world's best known luxury brands. Whatever the reason, you won't regret letting this one keep your wrist warm.