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Zodiac Autographique 686, Power Reserve 'Happy' Dial, circa 1950 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Zodiac Autographique 686, Power Reserve 'Happy' Dial, circa 1950

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Zodiac (maker)
Date
c. 1950
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
vws2949cs
Credit line
Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws2949cs)
Catalogue title (original)
Zodiac Autographique 686 - Power Reserve 'Happy' Dial - c.1950 (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws2949cs), this is a wristwatch by Zodiac, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1950. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist

A Charming Zodiac Autographique 686 with a Happy Power Reserve Dial Boasting Gold Dial Furniture including Stylish Daphine Hands, c.1950 In 1882, Ariste Calame founded a workshop for the production of watches in Le Locle, Switzerland. The company's original name was Ariste Calame, which would later become Zodiac. The name Zodiac was not registered until 1908, despite being used earlier by the company. What’s On Offer This watch just makes me happy - look at its smiling face!! lol. This vintage Zodiac watch is beautiful, the dial has aged nicely and almost looks gold which looks great with the applied hour markers. The stylish Dauphine hands are also in gold and there is a central seconds hand in black. The power reserve marker sits below the central pinion and gives the dial its smiling demeanour. The dial is encapsulated underneath an acrylic crystal and encased in stainless steel which is also in nice condition. The caseback bears the Zodiac scales emblem along with Swiss Made, Antimagnetic and shock resistant. There is also a case number which reads 361195. This watch is paired with. new tan-coloured soft leather pin buckle strap which brings out the warmth of the dial perfectly. The watch wears beautifully on the wrist, is light and comfortable and would make the ideal everyday watch as well as being perfectly appropriate for more formal occasions. A beautiful yet affordable vintage watch with bags of charisma, this Zodiac 686 will bring the wearer many years of happy timekeeping!

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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