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Zodiac Aerospace Jet, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Zodiac (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
Product 761241600087
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (product 761241600087)
Catalogue title (original)
Zodiac Aerospace Jet (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number Product 761241600087), this is a wristwatch by Zodiac, made in Switzerland, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

The emergence of transcontinental flights in the 1950s saw changing needs in wrist wear. For pilots who found themselves ferrying passengers across continental lines, conventional timepieces would no longer suffice. They needed a watch that could tell time in two time zones simultaneously. Although pocket watches with a GMT function did exist, they would prove impractical for the fast-paced environs of an airplane cockpit. The most successful of these was the Rolex GMT Master , designed exclusively with the needs of Pan Am pilots in mind. But the GMT Master, for all its appeal, didn’t have one feature that many pilots desired: a 24-hour dial. This watch, the Zodiac Aerospace Jet, does. Following on the heels of the Sea Wolf, Zodiac’s first dive watch, the Aerospace Jet (which first saw life as the Hermetic) was Zodiac’s foray into the wonderful world of pilot’s watches. The Aerospace Jet had, like the Glycine Airman before it, a 24-hour dial. But unlike the other versions of Zodiac Aerospace Jet, with a 12 hour dial and a 24 hour bezel, or the Rolex GMT Master, the Zodiac Aerospace Jet was a true 24-hour watch, with the hour and minute hands only going around the dial once in a 24-hour span. Debuting as it did in the middle of the Vietnam War, it found a home on the wrists of helicopter and jet pilots. By the 1970s, the watch took on the moniker by which it is now known: the Aerospace Jet. From the swamps of Southeast Asia to the shores of South Beach, the Aerospace Jet had arrived. This particular example is a later one from the 1970s, with a handsome black dial. Sturdy and stylish, it will be a trusty companion for daily life—whenever, and wherever, you decide to take it.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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