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Wristwatch by Chaumet, 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Chaumet (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 36 mm
Stock no.
40991808
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40991808)
Catalogue title (original)
Chaumet Date (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40991808), this is a wristwatch by Chaumet, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Stainless steel sports watches have lately taken a backseat to more artistic expressions and elegant displays of timekeeping in the hearts and minds of many enthusiasts — and frankly, we’re 1000% behind the recent resurgence of appreciation for these long-ignored timepiece designs! Often executed with peculiar case shapes and precious metals, these timepieces were beautiful in every sense of the word — aesthetically and mechanically. One of the many overlooked brands whose back catalog runs rich with this ethos is Chaumet. Incepted in 1780, Chaumet has legitimate pedigree as a high-jeweler worthy of royalty, though it wasn’t until 1907, when Joseph Chaumet established a brick and mortar maision at 12 Vendôme - the very heart of Parisian style and luxury - that Chaumet began to receive wider appreciation. The brand is still headquartered there today. Though Chaumet's focus is more concentrated in jewelry, they have produced some stunning timepieces throughout their history. This example, a Reference 13A Date model dates to the 1990s and features a 36mm, 18K yellow gold case with a curved bezel, sapphire crystal and a solid gold crown. Its non-luminous white dial features printed, navy blue, quadrant indices, a tone-matching ‘railroad’ minute track, a date window at 3 o’clock and comes fitted with a blued steel obelisk handset. Framed by an exhibition sapphire caseback, this piece is powered by a self-winding movement that features a signed, yellow gold, winding rotor finished with Côtes de Genève . This piece is accompanied by a signed, black alligator leather strap with a signed, 18K gold pin buckle to complete what is indeed a graceful display of timekeeping. In fantastic condition throughout, this Chaumet is a simply fantastic design on the periphery of better-known Parisian houses and offers a compelling value proposition with elegant looks and legitimate history!

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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