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Pocket Watches · Watch with calendar

Watch with calendar

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Firm of Bordier Frères (Maker)
Date
c. 1780–90
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Swiss, Geneva
Object type
Watch with calendar
Materials / technique
Case: varicolored gold, partly enameled; Dial: white enamel; Movement: brass and steel
Dimensions
Diameter (case): 1 1/2 in. (3.8 cm); Diameter (back plate): 1 3/16 in. (3 cm)
Accession / object no.
89.2.83
Credit line
Gift of Joseph W. Drexel, 1889
Catalogue title (original)
Watch with calendar (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (object number 89.2.83), this is a watch with calendar by Firm of Bordier Frères, made in Swiss, Geneva, Switzerland, dated c. 1780–90. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Case: varicolored gold, partly enameled; Dial: white enamel; Movement: brass and steel. Recorded dimensions: Diameter (case): 1 1/2 in. (3.8 cm); Diameter (back plate): 1 3/16 in. (3 cm). The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

The source record does not include a narrative description. The structured fields above are reproduced from it.

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches

Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.

Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.

What to look for

  • Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
  • Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
  • Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.

Dating clues

  • Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
  • Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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