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Waltham x Sandoz 'Exotic' Rallye Diver, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Waltham (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
United States
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 40 mm
Stock no.
40992760
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40992760)
Catalogue title (original)
Waltham x Sandoz 'Exotic' Rallye Diver (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40992760), this is a wristwatch by Waltham, made in United States, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 40 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

What you're looking at here is something a bit out of the ordinary for the watch industry. It's the rare union of Waltham and Sandoz, two watch firms that made notable pieces throughout the 20th century. Designed as a Rallye watch, this unique diver features a day-date functionality with a classic diver compressor case, multi tone dial, and stick handset. This piece embodies the overbuilt aesthetic of 1970s divers, measuring 40mm in diameter, though the piece was actually made in the 60s! This piece has a lovely two tone bezel believed to be made from bakelite, and the resulting piece has a really warm charm to it, characteristic of the era's most distinguished divers. Between its Rally style configuration and the multitude of colors ranging from blue, yellow and black, it's very easy to get lost in this fantastic 'exotic' dial. The day and date indicator adds some utility for those that like that need that sort of thing handy on their timepiece! If you love horological history, and are looking for a diver not to be found on anyone else's wrist, this is the piece for you!

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Dive and water-resistant watches

Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.

Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.

What to look for

  • Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
  • Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
  • Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
  • Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.

Dating clues

  • Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
  • Professional dive watches: from 1953.
  • Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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