
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Vertex www Dirty Dozen, British Military Soldier's Watch, circa 1944
- Maker / attribution
- Vertex (maker)
- Date
- c. 1944
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- vws4112cs
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws4112cs)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Vertex www Dirty Dozen - British Military Soldier's Watch - c.1944 (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws4112cs), this is a wristwatch by Vertex, dated c. 1944. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist
A classic Vertex Dirty Dozen with beautifully aged lume and original military character, c.1944 Vertex was founded in Switzerland in 1916 and became known for dependable, purpose-built watches. During the Second World War, the British Ministry of Defence sought robust wristwatches that could withstand battlefield conditions. Vertex was chosen as one of the twelve firms commissioned to produce these tough service watches, later dubbed the “Dirty Dozen.” Built to strict military standards for legibility and durability, Vertex’s contribution helped define its place in both military and watchmaking history. What's on Offer This outstanding Vertex WWW is a superb example of British military issue from the final stages of WWII, produced by one of the rarest and most desirable makers within the legendary “Dirty Dozen” group. The rich black dial remains wonderfully legible, with bold Arabic numerals, crisp minute track and original luminous plots that have aged evenly, giving the watch a warm, authentic military character. The pencil hands retain their original lume, adding to the cohesive, untouched look of the dial. The stainless-steel case shows honest, service-consistent wear that speaks to the watch’s history without detracting from its strong wrist presence. Turn the watch over and the engraved military markings on the case back clearly confirm its wartime provenance, anchoring it firmly in period. Now paired with a military-style strap, this is a highly wearable piece of true military horology — historically important, increasingly scarce, and endlessly charismatic for the serious collector or enthusiast.
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Military, pilot and travel watches
The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.
In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.
What to look for
- Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
- High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
- 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
- Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
- Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
- GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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