
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Vertex Dirty Dozen, WW2 Military Issued Watch, circa 1944
- Maker / attribution
- Vertex (maker)
- Date
- c. 1944
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 35 mm
- Stock no.
- vws3695
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws3695)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Vertex Dirty Dozen - WW2 Military Issued Watch - c.1944 (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws3695), this is a wristwatch by Vertex, dated c. 1944. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist
A Rare WW2 Military Issued Vertex Dirty Dozen Watch in Fantastic Original Condition, Very Collectable, c.1944 Vertex, a prestigious British watch company, has a storied history intertwined with military timekeeping. Established in 1916 by Claude Lyons, Vertex became renowned for producing reliable and precise timepieces. During World War II, the brand rose to prominence as one of the twelve manufacturers selected to produce the "Dirty Dozen" watches for the British Ministry of Defence. These watches were designed to meet rigorous standards, ensuring durability and accuracy in challenging conditions faced by military personnel. The military watches crafted by Vertex during this period were characterised by their robustness, featuring waterproof cases, black dials, luminous hands, and numerals for legibility in low-light conditions. This commitment to excellence laid the foundation for Vertex's long-standing reputation in military horology. In recent years, Vertex has revitalised its historic models, combining classic designs with modern technology, appealing to both watch enthusiasts and military history aficionados. This fusion of heritage and innovation continues to bolster Vertex’s esteemed legacy in military watchmaking. What's on Offer We are delighted to offer for sale this wonderful example of the Vertex member of the Dirty Dozen family of watches. Originally commissioned for British forces during World War II its design reflects the strict military specifications for durability, legibility, and reliability in combat conditions. The Vertex Dirty Dozen WWII military watch is a historically significant timepiece. The watch features a 35mm chrome topped case which does show some signs of wear, a part of its vintage appeal and not to be unexpected from a watch of this age and nature. The rich matte black dial is in very nice shape and still highly legible, with bold Arabic numerals and a railroad minute track, both coated in aged luminous paint for visibility in low-light conditions. A distinctive broad arrow marking on the dial signifies British military issuance. The watch is equipped with sword-style hands, also luminous, and a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock, maintaining a clean and functional layout. The manually wound Caliber 59 movement, made in Switzerland, ensures reliable timekeeping. A shatterproof acrylic crystal protects the dial, while fixed bar lugs secure the durable NATO-style strap. This watch embodies wartime resilience, blending utilitarian design with horological heritage and remains very much sought-after across the globe by collectors, especially in this exceptional original condition, a real British military heritage piece.
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Military, pilot and travel watches
The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.
In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.
What to look for
- Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
- High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
- 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
- Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
- Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
- GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Related records
Wristwatches · 2022
Vertex MP45 Arctic, Jamaican Bobsled Team Issued 2022 Winter Olympics, 2022
Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom
Wristwatches · c. 1930s
Vertex Vintage Tank, Yellow and White Gold, Breguet Numeral Dial, circa 1930s
Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom
Wristwatches · c. 1944
Vertex Dirty Dozen, WWW, WW2 British Military Issued, Matching Case Numbers, circa 1944
Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom
Wristwatches · c. 1944
Vertex WW2 Dirty Dozen, British Military Issued Soldiers Watch, circa 1944
Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom
Wristwatches · 1900–1999
Wristwatch by Mercury, 1900–1999
Modemuseum Hasselt
Wristwatches · 1900–1999
Wristwatch by Nutrix, 1900–1999
Modemuseum Hasselt
Wristwatches · 1920
Wristwatch, 1920
Modemuseum Hasselt
Wristwatches · 1931
Rolex 'Oyster Perpetual' rotor self-winding wrist-watch, lever escapement, in steel case with glass in back, Montres Rolex SA, Geneva, Switzerland, 1931
Science Museum Group, London
