
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Vertex Vintage Tank, Yellow and White Gold, Breguet Numeral Dial, circa 1930s
- Maker / attribution
- Vertex (maker)
- Date
- c. 1930s
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- white gold
- Stock no.
- vws3670
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws3670)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Vertex Vintage Tank - Yellow and White Gold - Breguet Numeral Dial - c.1930s (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws3670), this is a wristwatch by Vertex, dated c. 1930s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: white gold. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist
A Charming Vertex Tank Watch Crafted From Yellow and White Gold with a Beautiful Breguet Dial and Blued Steel Hands, c.1930s Vertex Watches, founded in 1916 by Claude Lyon in London, boasts a rich history interwoven with horological innovation and military heritage. Initially, Vertex gained recognition for producing reliable and precise timepieces, quickly earning a reputation for quality. During World War II, Vertex was one of the select manufacturers that produced the legendary "Dirty Dozen" watches for the British Ministry of Defense. These particular watches were demanded for their durability, legibility, and precision, essentials for military operations. Over the decades, Vertex continued to innovate and expand its collection, maintaining an emphasis on both classic design and modern technology. However, in the 1970s, the brand faced challenges amid the Quartz Crisis, which saw a decline in traditional watchmaking in favor of cheaper quartz technology. In 2016, Don Cochrane, the great-grandson of the founder, revitalized Vertex, paying homage to its illustrious past while incorporating contemporary elements, ensuring its legacy endures in the competitive landscape of modern watchmaking. What's on Offer If this beautiful and unusual vintage tank watch crafted from yellow and white gold isn't, the epitome of charming, then I don't know what is! The ecru dial is wonderfully vintage with even patina and the Breguet numerals are still rich black and crisp. A sub-seconds dial sits at 6 o'clock and beautifully ornate blued steel hands complete the picture. The case of this watch, however, is the jewel in the crown, a delightful tank shape with very definite Art Deco styling, and unusually it is made of two colours of gold which we have never seen in this style of watch previously! The watch looks fabulous on the wrist. It has clearly been meticulously looked after over the years and was originally presented to an employee of WH Spencer & Sons (it appears by his name he IS the son!) in 1937, you will note the endearing inscription on the yellow gold case back. This is a particularly beautiful watch which would make a wonderful gift or a very worthy addition to any collection.
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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