
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Vertex WWW, A Dirty Dozen Military Issued Wrist Watch, Calibre 59 Movement, circa 1945
- Maker / attribution
- Vertex (maker)
- Date
- c. 1945
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- vws1547
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws1547)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Vertex WWW - A Dirty Dozen Military Issued Wrist Watch - c.1945 - Calibre 59 Movement (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws1547), this is a wristwatch by Vertex, dated c. 1945. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist
A Vertex WWW Dirty Dozen Military Issued Wrist Watch from World War II In 2015, 100 years since Claude Lyons started the company, his great grandson Don Cochrane re-incorporated the brand and Vertex have since released heritage models that channel earlier Vertex pieces which includes the M100 model which is a modern day reissue of the “Vertex Dirty Dozen”. The M100 is still available today. What’s On Offer The example we have on offer here is a really clean example which is testament to a watch that has seen some of the worst conditions you could throw a watch into. By no means battle scarred, the present watch has a wonderful aged patina to the hands whilst the dial retains its deep black appearance and the Arabic numerals and Vertex logo remain sharp and striking. The outer track finishes the dial off wonderfully with the lume looking tidy on the dial. The case has signs of age but on a watch of this nature, it only further enhances the package and interest as a watch of history with an amazing story.
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Military, pilot and travel watches
The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.
In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.
What to look for
- Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
- High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
- 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
- Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
- Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
- GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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