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Vertex Dirty Dozen WW2 Military Issued Soldiers Watch, Matching Case and Lug Numbers, circa 1944 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Vertex Dirty Dozen WW2 Military Issued Soldiers Watch, Matching Case and Lug Numbers, circa 1944

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Vertex (maker)
Date
c. 1944
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
vws3657cs
Credit line
Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws3657cs)
Catalogue title (original)
Vertex Dirty Dozen WW2 Military Issued Soldiers Watch - Matching Case and Lug Numbers - c.1944 (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws3657cs), this is a wristwatch by Vertex, dated c. 1944. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist

A Rare and Collectable (Matching Numbers) Military Issued Vertex Dirty Dozen Watch in Original Condition, c.1944 The “Dirty Dozen” watches refer to twelve timepieces commissioned by the British Ministry of Defence during World War II for military use. These rugged, reliable watches were manufactured by twelve Swiss brands, including Omega, Longines, IWC, and Vertex, each adhering to strict specifications: black dials, luminous hands, Arabic numerals, and a hacking seconds function. Officially known as W.W.W. (Wrist Watch Waterproof), they were delivered around 1945 to British soldiers. Collectively dubbed the “Dirty Dozen” by collectors—referencing the 1967 war film—these watches remain iconic today for their utilitarian design, historical significance, and enduring appeal in vintage military watch circles. What's on Offer This c.1945 Vertex “Dirty Dozen” military watch is a good example of functional wartime design. Its rich black dial features the bold Arabic numerals, outer minute track, and recessed sub-seconds dial that define the W.W.W. specification issued by the British Ministry of Defence during World War II. The dial proudly displays the military broad arrow—or "pheon"—marking, denoting government property, with a matching engraving on the case back and matching case and lug numbers which are not often seen now! The chrome-topped case shows obvious signs of wear - a compelling reminder that this watch may well have seen live action, making it a highly collectible piece of British military heritage. Certainly a worthy addition to any collection and a joy to both military and vintage enthusiasts.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Military, pilot and travel watches

The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.

In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.

What to look for

  • Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
  • High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
  • 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
  • Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
  • Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
  • GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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