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Universal Genève Tri-Compax (Ref. 12552) 18K RG, 1940s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Genève Tri-Compax (Ref. 12552) 18K RG, 1940s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
1940s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
UGTC12552-2
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (UGTC12552-2)
Catalogue title (original)
1940s Universal Genève Tri-Compax (Ref. 12552) 18K RG (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number UGTC12552-2), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated 1940s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Universal Genève created its first chronograph in 1917 and roughly 18 years later, they launched their first “Compax” in which many variations were to follow. Vintage Universal Genève’s sports watches are particularly sought after thanks to their variety, unique designs, and larger sports watch case sizing. Although Universal Geneve created a variety of very notable and collectible watches, they are most known for their esteemed chronographs, and of those chronographs, the Tri-Compax stands out as being their most recognizable model. The Tri-Compax was created in 1944 in celebration of the company's 50th anniversary, as was introduced as the new flagship mainstay for Universal Geneve. Featuring not only a full three-register chronograph, but the Tri-Compax also impressively houses both a triple calendar and moon phase complications into a relatively compact design. It's the blend between the mechanically complex design melded with a sophisticated dial presentation that has made the Tri-Compax so beloved and cherished by collectors today. SPECS Stock # UGTC12552-2 Brand Universal Geneve Style Tri-Compax Model 12552 Serial 13XXXXX Size Men's Material 18K Rose Gold Dial Silver "Aged" Millimeters 36.5 Strap 2pc Handmade Lizard Skin Leather Strap W/ 18K RG Universal Geneve Tang Buckle CASE & BRACELET The well-proportioned and slightly oversized for the era 18K rose gold case is in exceptional condition with minimal signs of previous polishing present, showcasing very deep hallmarks and thick and symmetrical lugs. The case retains its original square pushers and the crown appears to be original as well. The case back retains extremely deep factory markings with minimal signs of wear. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade lizard skin leather strap along with the original 18K rose gold Universal Geneve tang buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original, well-preserved, and charming Tri-Compax dial features a beautiful vintage aesthetic and color palette. While the watch does show some gentle distressing and age, which is expected for the age of the watch, its presentation remains fully in intact in a way that enhances the watch's appearance. The hands all remain original to the watch and in excellent condition. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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