Skip to content

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Genève Polerouter Deluxe, 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
40992018
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40992018)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Genève Polerouter Deluxe (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40992018), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Very rare is the watch that can check multiple boxes in the hearts and heads of watch collectors, which is the very reason that any collector — or future collector — needs a Polerouter. With its ties to the great Gerald Genta — who was only 24 when he designed it — stunning looks, a horologically-significant movement and an interesting history to boot, the Polerouter is that one amazing value proposition that punches far above its weight class. This particular Polerouter, a "Deluxe" Reference 10357/1, dates to the 1950s and features a solid 35mm 18K rose gold twisted-lug case with a matching, brushed rose gold dial with an applied 'shield' logo, a matching ‘dauphine’ handset, a signed crown, and UG's Calibre 215 automatic-winding micro-rotor movement within. The culmination of design details like the gorgeous graduated chapter ring with its balanced dial configuration sans date window, the svelte 'microtor' movement, the twisted lug case, and the outstanding build quality, leave us with a truly important watch from the most famous watch designer in history. Solid rose gold examples of this reference don’t surface often. That said, pieces in exceptional, museum-grade condition, such as this Polerouter are even rarer. All the tell-tale signs of an outstanding Polerouter are present. Even just glancing at the case might give you a cut with just how sharp it is! With the recent news of Universal Geneve’s revival, Polerouters have seen an uptick in interest amongst experienced collectors as well as those who are more green behind the ears. Our advice — act fast before someone else gets the same brilliant idea!

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

Related records