Universal Geneve Polerouter De Luxe 18K YG (Ref. B1023411) Gold Two-Tone Dial, 1960s

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

This Universal Geneve Polerouter is a gorgeous piece of horological history. Designed by Gerald Genta, one of the most influential watch designers ever, and the man behind some of the most iconic timepieces in existence, including the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Universal Genève SA was one of the most recognized watch companies in both Europe and the U.S. in the post-war era, mostly recognized for their chronograph models. But after Universal Genève settled a patent dispute regarding the micro-rotor caliber of movement, they released what would become their most popular watch – the Polerouter. Originally manufactured as the Polarouter in 1954, it contained the Cal. 138SS bumper movement which was then quickly replaced with the Cal. 215 micro rotator movements which also resulted in a subtle name change from Polarouter to Polerouter. The Polerouter had taken on many variations within its first 15 years of production including Polerouter De Luxe, Polerouter Genève, Polerouter Compact, Polerouter Super, Polerouter "NS", Polerouter III, Polerouter Jet, and the Polerouter Sub. This iteration, being the Polerouter De Luxe, is the most luxurious model of the Polerouter family. Sporting a slightly larger and more dressy case design than its more common siblings. The dial is also an incredible two-tone finish, consisting of a textured center potion and a mirrored outer portion that features engraved hour markers. Interestingly, even though the De Luxe model is still signed Polerouter, it doesn't make use of the iconic microtor movement like the other models of the same era, instead, the De Luxe employs the cal. 138SS bumper automatic movement, like the first generation models before it. SPECS Stock # UGPRB1023411 Brand Universal Geneve Style Polerouter De Luxe Model B1023411 Serial 18XXXXX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Gold Millimeters 35.5 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The exceptional 18K yellow gold case retains impressive dimensions throughout, showing only gentle signs of use with only nominal evidence of being previously polished present. The case retains its original crown signed with the Universal Geneve logo. The screw-down case back retains the original factory engravings and serial in deep and crisp condition. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap with a generic gold-colored tang buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original and magnificent two-toned gold dial is a true work of art, showcasing intricate dial making techniques typically seen in far more expensive timepieces. The textured center of the dial exhibits no visible wear or age with the text remaining in perfect condition. The mirror-finished gold outer portion of the dial exhibits some nominal wear but is in excellent condition overall. The original yellow gold dauphine style hands are in near-perfect condition with some minor oxidation present. ACCESSORIES