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Universal Geneve Polerouter Date Gilt Dial Ref 317537, 1964 — view 1 of 6
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Universal Geneve Polerouter Date Gilt Dial Ref 317537, 1964

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
1964
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
W-734
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-734)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Geneve Polerouter Date Gilt Dial Ref 317537 (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-734), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated 1964. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

When Genta Helped out SAS Universal Geneve Polerouters were the official watches of Scandinavian Airline Systems. They commissioned Gerald Genta to design a watch to commemorate their new route that went over the North Pole, which need to be anti-magnetic to cope with the extreme magnetic fields. This example remains in really beautiful condition – the 35mm steel case looks completely untouched to us. The twisted lugs give the watch an unusual look, which we think gives the watch a little something extra on the wrist. The deep glossy gilt dial has a reeded outer track and crosshair on the inner gilt section. The lume dots have turned a rich yellow colour that matches the hands. The automatic movement features the UG micro rotor and has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. Specifications - Reference 317537 - Steel case, gilt dial - Dates to 1964 - Automatic ‘mini rotor’ movement - Crown has been replaced - Fully serviced by our watchmaker - Includes a Bulang and Sons strap - Includes a handmade single leather watch pouch

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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