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Universal Genève Polerouter, c. 1965

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
c. 1965
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
40991215
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40991215)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Genève Polerouter (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40991215), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1965. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Very rare is the watch that can check multiple boxes in the hearts and heads of watch collectors, which is the very reason that any collector — or future collector — needs a Polerouter. With its ties to the great Gerald Genta — who was only 24 when he designed it — stunning looks, a horologically-significant movement and an interesting history to boot, the Polerouter is that one amazing value proposition that punches far above its weight class. This particular Polerouter, a Reference 868108/02, dates to circa 1965 and features a stainless steel twisted-lug case with a sunburst silver 'crosshair' dial with an applied 'U' logo, a signed crown, a matching dauphine handset, and UG's Calibre 68 automatic-winding micro-rotor movement within. The culmination of design details like the gorgeous graduated chapter ring, the crosshair dial, the svelte 'microtor' movement, the twisted lug case, and the outstanding build quality, leave us with a truly important watch from the most famous watch designer in history. When you strap it on your wrist you’ll quickly see why collectors are always on the hunt for clean examples of Polerouters such as this one!

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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