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Universal Genève Jump Hour (Ref. 825.125), 1990s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Genève Jump Hour (Ref. 825.125), 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 26 mm
Stock no.
Product 8731711963319
Credit line
Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8731711963319)
Catalogue title (original)
1990s Universal Genève Jump Hour (Ref. 825.125) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8731711963319), this is a wristwatch by Universal Genève, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 26 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Huntington Company

History and Significance Universal Genève is best remembered today for its vintage chronographs, but some of the brand's most interesting watches came much later. During the 1990s, Universal Genève produced a number of unusual designs that feel almost disconnected from the traditional watches that made the company famous. Reference 825.125 is one of them. The rectangular case houses a regulator-style display with the hours shown through a jumping-hour aperture at 12, minutes displayed on the large upper register, and running seconds below. At 26mm x 43mm, the proportions give it considerably more presence on the wrist than the case width might suggest. These watches are genuinely difficult to find. It is one of those obscure neo-vintage Universal Genève references that rarely surfaces, particularly compared with the better-known pieces from the brand's earlier catalog. Writer's Thoughts This is exactly the type of neo-vintage watch that has become increasingly interesting to us. It is strange, beautifully proportioned, mechanically interesting, and obscure enough that even experienced collectors may not immediately recognize it. The jumping-hour display is what makes the 825.125 special. Instead of using a conventional hour hand, the hour appears through the aperture at 12 and changes instantaneously as the minute hand completes each rotation. Combined with the oversized upper register and smaller seconds display, the entire dial feels more like an old precision instrument than a conventional wristwatch. There is visible wear and aging to the dial, particularly within the lower seconds register. We would rather see that honest aging on an unusual watch like this than pretend it is something it isn't. The case itself presents nicely, and the overall watch retains the unusual character that makes this reference so compelling. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Universal Genève Model: Jump Hour Year: Circa 1990s Case Material: Stainless steel Case Size: 26mm x 43mm Dial: Silver regulator-style dial with jumping-hour aperture Movement: Mechanical Strap/Bracelet: Brown leather strap Buckle/Clasp: Generic buckle Contents: Watch only Condition Case: The stainless steel rectangular case presents in attractive overall condition with light surface wear consistent with age and use. The case retains well-defined geometry and strong edges, with some visible marks and scratches particularly around the caseback and polished surfaces. Dial: The silver dial remains attractive and highly legible, with visible age-related wear. The most noticeable aging is concentrated within the lower seconds register, where spotting and discoloration can be seen. Additional subtle aging is present across the dial consistent with the age of the watch. Hands: The black hands remain well preserved overall and provide strong contrast against the silver dial. Crystal: The crystal presents well overall with light wear consistent with use. Strap/Bracelet: Fitted with a brown leather strap showing light signs of wear. Buckle/Clasp: Fitted with a generic buckle.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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