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Universal Genève Field Watch, c. 1938–1939

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
c. 1938–1939
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 32 mm
Stock no.
40990602
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40990602)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Genève Field Watch (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40990602), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1938–1939. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 32 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Universal Genève is a true vintage watch nerd's type of brand, and we're happy to see it's been growing in popularity and getting the recognition we feel it deserves. Dating back to 1894, Universal earned its reputation by building beautiful watches powered by their innovative in-house movements, rather than using off-the-shelf parts like many of their Swiss counterparts. They were an early pioneer of chronographs with their Compax line in the 30's and 40's, brought us the timeless Polerouter in the 1950's, and put the world's thinnest automatic movement into the stunning White Shadow in the 1960's. That's quite a track record, but there is so much more to UG than just those models: Indeed, some of their simple field watches offer incredible value and are beautiful to behold, to boot. Dating to circa 1938-1939, this UG Reference 7480 field watch is housed in a 32mm stainless steel ‘stepped’ case with an acrylic crystal, an unsigned crown, and a thick, smooth bezel. This attractive case houses a satin silver dial with a black outer railroad minutes track, a sub-seconds register at 6:00, Radium Arabic indices, and a matching blued-steel alpha handset. Powered by the manually-wound Universal Genève Calibre 262 movement, this military/field-style timepiece comes paired to an awesome brown ‘Bund’-style leather strap with a signed steel pin buckle. Small in size but big in character, this piece provides an excellent jumping-off place for the enterprising collector looking for something just a little bit different — especially a collector interested in military-style watches.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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