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Universal Geneve Dress Watch (Ref. 28236/3) Silver Linen Dial, 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Geneve Dress Watch (Ref. 28236/3) Silver Linen Dial, 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
silver
Stock no.
UG282363
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (UG282363)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s Universal Geneve Dress Watch (Ref. 28236/3) Silver Linen Dial (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number UG282363), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Universal Geneve has long been "the watch enthusiast's watch" as the brand's cult-like, but steadily growing following has remained out of the scope of the mega-mainstream. The brand isn't without a few icons, however, boasting unmistakable models such as the Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter, the "Nina Rindt" Compax chronographs, and the ultra-complicated Tri-Compax that Eric Clapton made famous for wearing. Born in 1894 in Le Locle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch, the co-founders, Ulysse Perret and Numa Descombes, originally set out as a watch part manufacturer, but as their business grew, so did their offerings. In 1919, they moved their operation to Geneva, officially creating Universal Geneve. By 1925, UG had designed its first automatic movement known as the Auto Rem. Though Universal Geneve eventually produced a broad range of watches intended for vastly different applications, each model shared one crucial commonality: elegance. SPECS Stock # UG282363 Brand Universal Geneve Style Dress Watch Model 28236/3 Serial 23XXXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Silver "Linen" Millimeters 32.5 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The classic, slim, and understated dress watch case is in wonderful condition, showing only light signs of use throughout. The unsigned crown is believed to be original. The case back retains the original factory markings in crisp and legible condition. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original silver linen dial achieves both depth and simplicity while remaining in well-preserved vintage condition, showing only elements of gentle age throughout. The blued hands add a touch of color and remain in excellent condition. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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