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Universal Geneve Dress Watch (Ref. 20504), 1940s — view 1 of 6
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Universal Geneve Dress Watch (Ref. 20504), 1940s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
1940s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
UG20504-2
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (UG20504-2)
Catalogue title (original)
1940s Universal Geneve Dress Watch (Ref. 20504) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number UG20504-2), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated 1940s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Universal Geneve has long been "the watch enthusiast's watch" as the brand's cult-like, but steadily growing following has remained out of the scope of the mega-mainstream. The brand isn't without a few icons however, boasting unmistakable models such as the Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter, the "Nina Rindt" Compax chronographs, and the ultra-complicated Tri-Compax that Eric Clapton made famous for wearing. Born in 1894 LeLocle, Switzerland as Universal Watch, the co-founders Ulysee Perret and Numa Descombes originally set out as a watch part manufacturer, but as their business grew so did their offerings. In 1919 they moved their operation to Geneva, officially creating Universal Geneve. By 1925, UG had designed its first automatic movement known as the Auto Rem. Though Universal Geneve eventually produced a broad range of watches intended for vastly different applications, each model shared one crucial commonality, elegance. SPECS Stock # UG20504-2 Brand Universal Geneve Style Dress Watch Model 20504 Serial 25XXXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Silver "Aged" Millimeters 34 Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The well-preserved case features charming design elements that elevate the classical design, like the rounded and brushed extension of the case between the lugs as well as the long curved lugs themselves. The case exhibits gentle signs of use with no signs of major previous polishing. The Universal Geneve signed crown is likely an early service unit. The screw-down case back is very rare for the era and extremely well preserved, with all of the original factory markings fully intact. DIAL & HANDS The original and beautifully aged dial offers an extravagant vintage aesthetic with a military-style dial format. There are two small but notable marks on the dial above the handstack. The radium-lumed numerals all remain intact and have aged to a contrasting dark grey patina, under UV light inspection minimal degradation is present but not noticeable to the naked eye. The original blue hands and red sweep seconds hand remain in impressive condition, the hour and minute hands have been professionally restored with radium to a vintage cream color, matching the overall aesthetic of the watch. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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